How do I detect leak in heating pipes under a concrete floor
- Thread starter nahcartsnai
- Start date
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You can hire a pressure test kit to test the heating pipework. First you have to isolate the boiler from the system then set up the test or you can leave the boiler installed but turn off the isolating valves at the F&R,fit a filling-loop and a pressure gauge to the F&R and then test the pipework or you can test both the boiler and the pipework at the same time by ensuring the boiler F&R valves are turned off.
However I would first test the boiler for a day and if it was okay then I would disconnect the the boiler from the F&R and then pressure test the pipework and repeat the test. If the leak is on the pipe-work then you are going to have to replace same.
However I would first test the boiler for a day and if it was okay then I would disconnect the the boiler from the F&R and then pressure test the pipework and repeat the test. If the leak is on the pipe-work then you are going to have to replace same.
Presumably you also had the CH off as well, so the boiler wouldn't fire at all?
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There ARE ways to find leaks.
Listen - with a metal rod or special microphone devices when all is quiet
Look - with a £50 infra-red thermometer most plumbers will have, for a patch of floor which has a large anomalous hot area. Or of course a posh thermal imager.
Sniff - for hydogen. It's introduced into the water and is incredibly penetrating. Special kit detects it coming up through. Even works on tile floors.
There are specialist companies who do this. One I used a couple of years ago guaranteed to find the leak, for £200. I know they found it but I didn't have further contact.
Google, presumably.
I have known much faster leaks than yours with no sign of water anywhere, though it turned out to be a joint a couple of inches under a floor. They're most often right under radiator tails.
Edit - took me about a minute to find.........
http://www.leakbusters.net/leak-detection.html?gclid=COXFmKnglpQCFQ5NQwod23wEuA
Listen - with a metal rod or special microphone devices when all is quiet
Look - with a £50 infra-red thermometer most plumbers will have, for a patch of floor which has a large anomalous hot area. Or of course a posh thermal imager.
Sniff - for hydogen. It's introduced into the water and is incredibly penetrating. Special kit detects it coming up through. Even works on tile floors.
There are specialist companies who do this. One I used a couple of years ago guaranteed to find the leak, for £200. I know they found it but I didn't have further contact.
Google, presumably.
I have known much faster leaks than yours with no sign of water anywhere, though it turned out to be a joint a couple of inches under a floor. They're most often right under radiator tails.
Edit - took me about a minute to find.........
http://www.leakbusters.net/leak-detection.html?gclid=COXFmKnglpQCFQ5NQwod23wEuA
Thanks to all for the replies and suggestions.
Will take a peak under the laminate floors today and see if there is anything obvious.
If not, I'll discuss with Chris whether we try isolating and pressurising parts of the system, or if we just call LeakBusters.
Thanks again.
Ian
Will take a peak under the laminate floors today and see if there is anything obvious.
If not, I'll discuss with Chris whether we try isolating and pressurising parts of the system, or if we just call LeakBusters.
Thanks again.
Ian
Hi Ian,has ur problem been resloved? u used any leak detection company, they works?
one way we use at work to locate hot water leaks in the concrete flooring is to use a thermal imaging camera to scan the sections of floor where the pipes are known to be running. The leak usually shows itself as a hot spot on the thermal imaging camera.This might work for you, and hiring a thermal imager might not be as expensive as other methods.
How about:
Pressurise to just below 3 bar. Isolate heating systems using valves on boiler. Leave overnight with no heat or hot water usage. If next morning pressure has not moved, then open valves on boiler. Pressure falls, proving loss on rads (rather than expansion vessel issue). Or otherwise.
Then back to the two obvious choices, or hire a heat seeking camera.
(edit). I posted this without realising there was a 2nd page.
Pressurise to just below 3 bar. Isolate heating systems using valves on boiler. Leave overnight with no heat or hot water usage. If next morning pressure has not moved, then open valves on boiler. Pressure falls, proving loss on rads (rather than expansion vessel issue). Or otherwise.
Then back to the two obvious choices, or hire a heat seeking camera.
(edit). I posted this without realising there was a 2nd page.
THIS IS 4 YEARS OLD.
Andy
Andy
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