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I was wondering if it was a dust issue, the filler was certainly dry (been left a few days).

About to lay a laminate floor on a combination of floorboards and chipboard over joists in a ground-floor room. There has been some previous damp (rainwater entry, now remedied) which rotted the ends of two joists but otherwise it's nice and dry. Do I need a mositure/vapour barrier? I'll...

I've been having the same problem - done quite a bit of filling on painted plaster walls which were in pretty poor condition. Used powdered original Polyfilla, in two separate layers where necessary, sanded after leaving to thoroughly dry, then dusted-down. I've applied matt emulsion via...

I've had a big heater against it for most of the day, it is drying but is very patchy. I'll keep on trying to dry it out before I do anything.

I need to paint an internal wall which has had a broken gutter leaking onto it externally for a long time. It has been partially re-skimmed and the new plaster is still damp; the existing plaster is also showing damp coming through where I've given it a fresh coat of emulsion. I know the wall...

Thanks, he'll be having a general look around to check.

:roll: Hasn't been yet. On further investigation it is a multi-strand cable but it isn't 6mm. It's also old and brittle, so it's going in the bin.

Back to the original question - the CU had a dedicated supply to an immersion heater (just removed). It's 6mm cable and is switched via the kitchen (big cable into the switch, big cable out up to the old water tank), right where the oven is going. Could I use this cable run for the oven and...

Thanks. Not my bathroom fortunately, family friend of a friend tiled it. It's a low-pressure over-bath shower which won't see that much use so I think he's happy to leave it as is - the previous (25 year old) tiles were straight onto the walls with no tanking or panelling and all was fine...

Wow - what a chippy response. His work has been recommended, it's a very simple job for which I need a certificate, it's a fair price and I simply do not have the time to wait around for another four electricians to tell me I need something I don't because they either can't or won't...

Just noticed that new tiles around a bath/shower have been attached using Wickes Non Slip wall tile adhesive, which says it isn't suitable for showers on the back ... Practically, is this an issue assuming correct grouting and sealing of the lower edge?

Another electrician, needs RCD because stuck on a surface is less than 50mm deep in it. His price was reasonable despite, so he's got the job.

Most helpful. The RCD was apparently required because it was a new circuit and regulations required an RCD on all new circuits.

Thanks again. I don't have Part P in front of me, but there's a lot of contradictory information on the internet. For example, diyfaq.org.uk says: "In general, ANY cable which is less than 50mm below the wall surface AND is NOT mechanically protected as defined by the IEE Regulations...

Thank you, seems my electrician's advice about RCDs and Part P was incorrect. The intention was to cable-clip the cable along the most suitable solid beam or joist, and possibly put it in cosmetic plastic trunking where it's visible in the under-stairs cupboard if it looks neater.

No earth electrode that I'm aware of ... CU looks perhaps 1980s to my untrained eye. So to recap, I can run a new cable from a spare outlet on my existing push-in fuse CU and without installing a new RCD-equipped separate fuse box for it? As above, the cable will be visible only by the...

I thought it needed an RCD because it wasn't channelled? The actual cable run will be out the top of the CU box directly under the first floor floorboards and then down into the staircase cupboard to the back of the kitchen wall.

Thanks, that confirms my worst fears that £200 of hob and oven are probably going to cost £400 to wire in ...

Thanks. The oven needs a 2.5kW connection, the hob 7kW. The wiring run will be roughly 15-20m from CU to kitchen and none of it will be >50mm in the wall.

I have a new electric cooker and an electric hob to install - they're replacing a gas/electric all-in-one which looks like it was plugged into a wall socket. I understand that, for the hob's power requirement at least, I will need a specific supply from the consumer unit and a cooker...