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OK, thanks foxhole.

Thank you foxhole. So go right to one foot/end of the ladder and hit there? BTW, honestly, I doubt I could hit a rung hard enough with a mallet to even dent a rung :giggle: . And if I can't get it to unjam, would I be OK with attempting to cut out these guides/lugs?

Got a 2 section combi ladder that swung open the wrong way with the lower section dropping a short distance under gravity, jamming the two sections together. It is rubber/plastic guides that have gone in/under the hinges. I've tried setting the ladder against an imovable and then pushing as hard...

Re the one pipe Bodd and ReganAndCarter I had a look in a couple of books and online for identifiers. Will be trying the 'feel the pipes when starting up the CH' later but the valves are floor level both ends of the rads unlike the high level valve at one end of each rad as shown in the diagrams...

Thanks Bodd. I didn't even realise there'd been inferior quality copper piping. So had a brief search and most seem to talk about the problem being late 70s pipes, which would be reassuring as the pipes here are all early 70s.

Thanks Bob :). Externally the rads are in excellent condition with no sign of corrosion or barely anything except smooth, complete paint (2 rads excepted, ones that have had towel racks on that have caused paint chipping) and when I've checked for cold mounds lower down (for sludge) only one rad...

Thanks very much ReganAndCarter :). That's all good to know and much better than I expected. Just a follow up that I remembered after I'd submitted (and maybe ought to be a new thread? Not sure so I'll add here), re bleeding and so system condition. Until perhaps 2015 the system went years...

The central heating is original from when the property was built and, as the setup is Primatic, has never had or been able to have inhibitor. Only on 2nd boiler since new and I'd be very surprised if the system has been flushed at any time except for the boiler replacement, if that. Now...

Another here with a Twyford 4 bolt double trap siphonic. In this case perfect condition externally. But not flushing properly. Pull the lever (fast or slow makes no difference), water fountains up out of the hole at the top of the lever side of the siphon (where the lever passes through), level...

:lol: hadn't thought of wire theft!

OK ;-). An internal pull through would definitely be best for me but at least I know what the options and requirements are now (of which coloured cable around the house isn't one :lol:). Thanks so much for all the advice. It has really helped :D .

OK, thanks. Not the finest decade, was it... :roll:

Usually as in 'if it has rotted anywhere this is where' or usually as in 'most fascias will have rotted here'? Yes. Would need eaves trays fitting, right?

Thanks :D . Makes things a lot simpler in my roofline tidy up ;-)

Indeed, I hadn't even though of the clipping :lol: . The reasons I was thinking DPC level are: a) visual - having ducting going around the front of the house at anyhwere near eye level wouldn't exactly be attractive, and b) to avoid going in down through the flashing at the edge of flat...

Fascia is 40+ year old timber. If it proves to be sound (ie fascia doesn't need replacing) I would still need to replace the guttering. Is this possible on 40+ year old timber though? If it is, what would I need to watch out for? Mainly of course I'm curious about what I need to do to avoid...

2 parts to this really. 1) If I get a standard gable ended detached house roof redone (new membrane, new tiles), will the roofers need to remove the fascia/soffit/barge as part of the job? 2) If they do need to remove the fascia/soffit/barge, is it normal to be able to reinstall the parts...

Something else occured to me. Am I correct in assuming the bonding needs to be routed within the house (ie that a route around the outside of the house, at something like dpc level, would not be acceptable)?

Ah :| . Well, that presumably makes replacing the CU a significantly more involved task then, given that the kitchen and garage are at opposite sides of the house. I wonder whether a 10mm2 cross section cable could be attached to the CU end and then pulled through from the sink end. I've pulled...

Thank you. And yep, spotted the mispost :oops: so swapped it. The bonding to the water pipes is in the kitchen, so won't be going to the CU. There is a tap in the garage that would be 1.5-2m cable distance away from the CU though, so should the bonding to water pipes be there instead? I...