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DIYer in need of some help. One wall of a new large lean-to shed / workshop will not overhang an existing concrete base (other 2 sides do overhang). I had a 2 course engineering brick base laid around the perimeter. The wall face in question will have a roller shutter door but the problem is...

T&G chipboard is already down. Plywood yet to go down.

Planning to fit LVT in two loft conversion rooms - approx 40 sqm. I already have the Karndean feather finish, and 6mm ply sheets. I want to sounds insulate mainly against impact noise. What product should I use (I also ideally want to use up the ply sheets I've already bought)?

Yes they were going to fit the cooker to the supply. I had a gas safe guy quote for the work since posting, and he says it'll cost ~£500 :shock: and that we're probably best of sticking with an electric cooker. Off to find out why this builder is BSing me, although he also said to stick...

My old man is having his kitchen redone and his cooker is electric at the moment. The builders/electrician tag team we were looking to employ say they can fit a new gas pipe for the new cooker and and that no certification is required. Does this sound right?

I didn't want to take any more tiles out and decided to just bite the bullet and remove the wooden frame and all the crap in the airing cupboard. I then cut some holes in the wall for access and was then able to patch up the other hole with plasterboard. I couldn't find any similar sized...

I need to replace some tiles but the plasterboard is damaged and has broken away due to a leak. How can I patch up this area (there's no access to the rear)? You can see some wood behind but this moves around freely.

Thanks, I've ordered a few replacement heads.

Thanks, that sorted it - kinda. When I put the heads back on (set to max) the rads go cold again. The Thermostats are Myson TRV 2 Way. Looks like they both need replacing.

I turned the thermostatic valves off on two heaters in unused bedrooms. They've been off for a long while, over a year. I've turned the valves back on but the heaters don't get hot. I've tried bleeding them. Both pipes going into the rads are cold. It's a Megaflow system. Here's a pick...

Thank for the reply Steve. Yes I have access from above only. Fixing some plasterboard to a batten which in turn screws to the wall plate is about the best idea I can think of too.

Here's what I'm talking about. I can't patch it up from underneath.

Some pics now it's finished.

I've draw lines on the boards so I know the centres of each joist. I think you've mistaken that for two boards. That should be 20 screws. ;) I spent a large part of yesterday adding more screws so now there's 50 screws per board. Due to the cuts for staggering of boards and cutout for...

I pushed up the sagging part and screwed in at ~5" spacing. The result is better but still sags 2.5mm on the one board I tried. I was planning on having it skimmed. Will the skim not cover this kind of thing assuming I finish screwing all the boards with lots more screws? This is still...

Here's a pic. If it was damp then surely if would affect all the boards? I'll give this a try.

Yes I screwed one side then the other to keep the board up, then filled in the middle. Screws are just under the surface of the board using bugle headed plasterboard screws. Plasterboard from Travis Perkins.

Roy, no screws missed. The sag is between the joists not along it. There are no noggins or support between the joists but I thought the boards would be ok over the 600mm. Alastair, its a very cold garage as the temp has dropped but its a dry garage. The boards have been up for a week. I...

I've just gone into the garage and noticed the 12.5mm plasterboard I've been fitting these past few weeks are sagging in between the joists. The joists are 600mm centres. I've screwed at 400mm spaces. Why has this happened?

Hello, I'm in the process of insulating and boarding the garage ceiling with foil backed plasterboard. I've started at one corner and fitted the first line square to the joists. As the side wall is not square to the joists there is an increasingly sized gap approx 10cm over the 5.2m length...