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All done. Removed bridge and old EBUS wires when removing old wireless controller (ClimaPro2) and then linked the 230v control "R" ---> "T3" and Live to T1.

Just when you think you've seen enough Hive instalation threads and then this pops up! I've searched the forum for similar threads, but most seem simple in comparison. Current setup is a Glow Worm Flexicom 30CX with a Climapro Wireless Handheld Thermostat programmer. The wire that goes to...

I could possibly buy an adaptor - but would that not defeat the object of having just one remote operate all 3 items? I.e if connecting via optical, will the soundbar turn on automatically when the TV does as currently connected to HDMI? Also, this is just over a week old and was working...

My so called "Smart" TV doesn't have optical - only the Sky Q box does, which dosn't really help as I watch 50% Sky and 50% app based streaming via the Smart TV.

I never usually turn the TV off at the plug, everything including the Sky Q box and the soundbar are always left on standby. I've also checked to see if the TV has done a software update in the last week, which it hasn't. The software is up to date.

I purchased a Panasonic SC-HTB688EBK 3.1 Sound bar and subwoofer from Currys just over a week ago. I had it connected to my Phillips Smart TV via the ARC HDMI Port and it worked brilliantly. I even setup the Sky Q remote control to allow me to just have a one remote setup and use the Sky remote...

When it comes to tool hire, I can vouch for one of the big boys I'm afriad. I guess it must vary from branch to branch but my local Jewsons has been more than helpful to me. The guy in the depot bent over backwards to get a cement mixer to my home address with little notice (or rather none!)...

Looks like the base of the frame has been knocked out - can still see the nails that would have held it in place. I'd repair the frame and replace the outer cladding (looks like tongue & groove) that is missing. Don't just fill it with expanding foam like what has been done on the other side !

Well, I have to hold my hands up and admit that I was wrong, wrong, wrong!!!! Went into screwfix and bought the "HEP20 Manifold Cap" and noticed as soon as it came out that it was to big! As Nige has stated above, it was 1 inch internal diameter! Swiftly had it refunded and bought two...

So you are telling me that I can't just buy what is listed on screwfix and toolstations website as a "hep20 manifold cap" which incidentally is threaded and mount that to the threaded manifold? As you can see, I've drained the system and undone the threaded hbp connection to the manifold.

All that is printed on the pipe is HBP UK, H&C and heating systems, and a batch number. Plus the 6mm as shown below. I'm simply stating what I'm seeing Infront of me - that doesn't make me confused!

Can you elaborate on how I am confused? Getting someone in to do a simple job defeats the object of being on a diy forum! I am asking simple questions that will allow me to purchase the correct parts before I drain the system down and tackle the job, myself. If nobody has the answer that I...

Yes, I'd prefer to cap it off at the manifold, but what caps would I need!? Are they threaded? Also, most pushfit stop end caps I've seen don't have sleeves? They literally just push on to the cut pipe? Is this pipe different to what I've been searching for? It just says HBP on the grey plastic...

There is another radiator on the opposite wall (not shown in photo) which is being replaced with a larger one.

Looks like there is an isolation valve on the far end pipe which will need opening with a flat head screw driver - once the filling loop pipe is connected. Then you can turn the black plastic tap until the pressure is at the correct level. Then turn off the tap, close the isolation valve and...

@mrStat Well spotted, I don't know why I mentioned the pressure loss as it's bimmin' obvious that it's the cold feed!! #facepalm! Brass cap still looks like is dripping though?!

Also, the brass cap on the pipe with the blue pipe connecting has a drip coming out of it - could be where your pressure has been going if that is a constant drip. Might be worth checking

I'm in the process of a knock through and also stud wall removal to create an open plan layout in my late 90's house. I've removed most of the stud wall and have got to the point where I need to remove a radiator to allow me to remove the timer frame work. I'm used to working with copper pipe...

What did you decide to do?

If you're going to use the black chalk board paint for your kids, surely you'd be better off battoning it out and using a marine grade ply to board it? End result after a few coats of paint would be much smoother than render and save you a fair bit of hastle. If it turns out that the wall isn't...