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Remove Radiator and Cap Pipe

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by dannymassive, 20 Aug 2019.

  1. dannymassive

    dannymassive

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    I'm in the process of a knock through and also stud wall removal to create an open plan layout in my late 90's house. I've removed most of the stud wall and have got to the point where I need to remove a radiator to allow me to remove the timer frame work. I'm used to working with copper pipe work as opposed to plastic and have a few questions about the capping off of the pipe work. A neighbour suggested just cutting the pipe close to the ceiling, capping it and pushing it up into the ceiling out of the way before making good but I have read somewhere on the forum that it's best to cut and cap as close to the manifold as possible. Luckily, I can actually access my manifold as it's just been boxed in within the airing cupboard so it is easy to access. Should I just simply disconnect the pipe from the manifold and cap the manifold, or cut the pipe a few inches from the manifold and cap that ? I don't want to open a can of worms if removing the pipe from the manifold is going to cause problems and not give me any way of capping it?! I'm also unsure if the brass manifold is threaded for a cap where the plastic pipe attachment goes in? I've not come across these manifolds before so it's all new to me. Before anyone mentions it, I do however know that I have to do both the hot and return manifolds! Photos below of stud wall and manifold for assistance with suggestions

    Stud wall :
    [​IMG]

    Manifold :
    [​IMG]
     
  2. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    just cut the pipe near the manifold and cap it off, dont forget to leave enough room for the insert inside the pipe, or you get blanking plugs/pegs that go straight into the manifold
     
  3. FiremanT

    FiremanT

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    How do you intend to heat the room after removing the rad?
     
  4. dannymassive

    dannymassive

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    There is another radiator on the opposite wall (not shown in photo) which is being replaced with a larger one.
     
  5. dannymassive

    dannymassive

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    Yes, I'd prefer to cap it off at the manifold, but what caps would I need!? Are they threaded?

    Also, most pushfit stop end caps I've seen don't have sleeves? They literally just push on to the cut pipe? Is this pipe different to what I've been searching for? It just says HBP on the grey plastic pipe, and 6mm which I assume is the internal diameter?

    Edit : to correct spelling mistake!
     
  6. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    No you are completely confused, I would recommend you employ someone that knows what they are doing .
     
  7. dannymassive

    dannymassive

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    Can you elaborate on how I am confused?

    Getting someone in to do a simple job defeats the object of being on a diy forum! I am asking simple questions that will allow me to purchase the correct parts before I drain the system down and tackle the job, myself. If nobody has the answer that I require, then I'll just end up draining the system and then going out to purchase the parts once it is drained, just thought it would be nice to have all the parts ready. As said, I'm used to working with copper pipe work and am competent with that, and competent enough to tackle a simple plumbing job and was only asking for the sake of identifying parts and how this plastic stuff actually works as it's not labeled or branded with the usual names that appear in the usual stores - i.e JG, Speedfit or Hep20.
     
  8. FiremanT

    FiremanT

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    I cannot read the writing on the pipe.Have you tried googling the brand and other details?

    And it wont be 6mm, which is probably what Ian was referring to.
     
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  9. dannymassive

    dannymassive

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    All that is printed on the pipe is HBP UK, H&C and heating systems, and a batch number. Plus the 6mm as shown below.

    [​IMG]

    I'm simply stating what I'm seeing Infront of me - that doesn't make me confused!
     
    Last edited: 21 Aug 2019
  10. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    That is not why I said you were confused,

    You do not cap anything at the manifold, you use a plug which is essentially a solid piece of PE the same diameter as the pipe and is fitted as if it was a leg of pipe no insert needed.

    The stop ends do not come with inserts (what you call sleeves) you buy them separate, every fitting on that system apart from the manifold blanks I mentioned need inserts installed (sometimes called stiffeners, never sleeves)

    and as already said , it will not be 6mm it will be either 8mm or 10mm, there is no 6mm
     
  11. dannymassive

    dannymassive

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    So you are telling me that I can't just buy what is listed on screwfix and toolstations website as a "hep20 manifold cap" which incidentally is threaded and mount that to the threaded manifold?

    As you can see, I've drained the system and undone the threaded hbp connection to the manifold.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    I Just looked that cap up on screwfix, have never seen one used in that situation, but I dont use hep20 anymore havent used it for many years, doesnt mean it wont work, but if it doesnt have some sort of rubber seal somewhere I would use plenty of ptfe
     
  13. Nige F

    Nige F

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    It looks to me that screwfix is confused - yes, it's a 3/4 BSP threaded cap - but it's not for capping a hep manifold. ( it's going to be 1"inside diameter)
     
  14. dannymassive

    dannymassive

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    Well, I have to hold my hands up and admit that I was wrong, wrong, wrong!!!!

    Went into screwfix and bought the "HEP20 Manifold Cap" and noticed as soon as it came out that it was to big! As Nige has stated above, it was 1 inch internal diameter!

    Swiftly had it refunded and bought two inserts and two JG Speedfit end caps. Long learning curve, but the pipes are now capped and system is refilled - leak free :)

    Photo only shows one of the manifolds :

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    Yep that was the best way to do it
     
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