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Major question for the brickies, please! I have fitted a 3 foot metal lintel for a new door opening in a garage wall and need to replace 3 stone blocks to fill the 3 foot x 6 inch gap in the course above it. Will a 5kg ready-mix mortar tub suffice as I can get one at the moment?

When viewing the forum (on Android and not logged in) the accept cookie message is appearing but "Accept" is not actioned unless the "view policy" is first entered, read and closed. However that link has an intermittent fault of not showing the link in an underlined form, and so does not work...

I came across one where the bolt went into a butterfly spring toggle type securing wing and another longer spring held the two together for retrieval. I don't know if that is what you have, but if it is you need to maintain an upward pull on the bolt until it is released. I also suspect that it...

The female half of the connector is designed to have two cables connected; one serves the mains plug and the other serves the foot control. (The foot control probably has a capacitor within it.) If you have the foot control, the connector may be still with it and the mains lead may still be in...

OK. But why not just use a spur to create a new socket and then simply plug the transformer cable into it?Less restrictive for future.

I wish to install some LEDs under the kitchen wall cabinets to give a working light on the worktops (ie not just an ambient illumination.) and was looking at some triangular units, 230V direct mains without 12v drivers. However the wattage seems to vary greatly (as well as the prices) from...

True, and "me bad", but I am where I am and more worktop is not an option. It's a 3m run.

Help, please. Having misjudged and miss-cut a kitchen worktop when the surrounding walls were not at right angles, I have a tapered gap on both ends up to 20mm wide. There are cupboard units above and I want to bring the tiles out from the back-wall to end level with the worktop on the side...

I have a 6.1 Kw double oven on a cooker outlet served by a dedicated 32A MCB circuit and wish to fit a 1200Watt microwave. above it. Can I add a 2.5mm cable to the cooker socket and connect to a wall socket 13A, please. My calcs say it is OK but is there anything else to consider, please?

Thanks to both---my oven is working (based on the acquisition of a replacement stat) and my mind is settled (based on the acquisition of knowledge).

Perhaps this should be in the appliance section but it is to help my understanding rather than a practical question. My oven case cooling fan circuit disc thermostat has three wires connected. One is permanent live from mains input via the fan, one is to mains return and one is switched to live...

Thanks for all the input. Just to confound things, when I started to check the existing stuff, it turns out that one of the lights is looped at its lamp batton but the other has a connector block in its switch. I think i will start from scratch, although as an adopted Yorkshireman it grieves me...

It's all one circuit, o no chance of borrowed neutrals, thanks. Yes, it would be 3 cables of 2+e and I am OK with the layout, so long as it is an acceptable method. You are correct, that i have not really understood BAS's diagram, if it is useful for 2+e, so I will study it further as a learning...

Thanks for the quick reply. Brown it will be and the identifiers are a wise idea. Would that circuit diagram, though, be only economically suitable for an "industrial" single wire cable set-up?

I have two separate one way switched lights in a large garage, with switches on opposite walls and intend to convert each to 2way operation for convenience, BUT maintain the separate illuminated areas. I will need to replace the single way one gang switches with two gang 2way and could use two...

Thew "trick" is the same as for fitting the last row against a wall. The locking lip has to be pared off. (Not the whole tongue but just the "lip" on it.) Exactly which bit can vary with the manufacturer, but the idea is to enable the last row to be pushed against the wall, and then pulled back...

PS. When he calls to get his estimate for lining the walls, it would be a good idea to have someone (not family) with you, who could keep a note of what is said. If the plasterer agrees that rectification is needed, then you will be in a better place.

Could you please clarify whether you have actually handed over the payment. Your tactics will need to be different, depending on that. Further advice will be forthcoming, but there is no point in talking about irrelevant routes. If you have paid him, why did you do so if the work was...

Well to bring thread back on topic, Thanks all, I have added a 5amp FSU, connected from the socket with 2.5mm and on to the switch & light in 1.5mm.

Many thanks both. No wonder I went off at a tangent whilst trying to fault find logically! That cut cable end was not an obvious first port of call.