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Is the Ancon diagram wrong? It clearly shows 225mm above the openings. Does the same apply to my concrete lintels (going into the garage), or should I put ties on the lintel (as close to the opening as possible or is 450mm fine?

Each side of the opening is 225mm (every course of block), or do you mean normal spacing i.e. 450mm vertically in my case?

You are right about a cavity tray. The tray goes up 225, so there's nothing to stop me putting ties on the same course as the tray on the inner skin. I will actually have 450mm of masonry above the lintel, and then a flat roof. The image on this page clearly shows 225 between the top of the...

This is what my lintel looks like from below. You can see the metal straps under the polystyrene insulation.

I've done some lintels and have seen some things that say you should have wall ties within 225mm above a lintel. This would make perfect sense for concrete lintels etc., but I'm wondering whether the cavity lintels act as wall ties too. The docs aren't clear but say it creates stability between...

A structural engineer spec'ed a 140mm concrete lintel for my new garage. The span is 900mm and there will be 300mm of blocks above plus a flat roof. It does seem a bit excessive IMO, but the SE probably/hopefully knows what he's doing

I have a 200x100mm (h x w) RHS steel and need to lay bricks on it. The radius is bigger than I expected (about 1"), so this would make the bed joint look like 35mm. It will be inside a garage, so I'm not worried by the appearance too much. Would this be acceptable? It has a shelf plate on...

I think I won't bother with DPC on top then. I think it's good to have it under the steel though as it should help take out any unevenness in the concrete.

It's in the middle of a garage, not an external wall. It's also not a lintel, it's a steel universal column. The question is whether I need a slip membrane on top (a single piece of DPC).

Ah, so should I put another but of DPC on top the steel when I put the bricks on it?

Yeah, I know what a cavity tray is as I've done them for my Windows etc., but just can't understand what it has to do with thermal movement Steels are done now, just a couple of pieces of DPC below the steel.

It is a cavity wall, but I still can't see why I would need a tray as the steel won't stick into the cavity. It's only supporting a roof, so there will only be a 500-600mm blocks above it.

I'm putting a large steel (6m span) in my garage extension to support the roof. I found this (https://www.nhbc.co.uk/binaries/content/assets/nhbc/tech-zone/nhbc-standards/tech-guidance/6.1/lintels-over-wide-garage-openings-.pdf) online and I'm trying to understand it. From what I understand, I...

I really want to do what is in the SE design, partly because I've already built everything up to the steel height. I don't want to knock it all down and start again. It's flush with the existing house, so cladding would make it stick out

I don't want a padstone as it'll look awful on the outside

I need to install a steal beam for a large garage opening (approx. 5.2m span). The brickwork is single skin (215mm wide) and the beam will have a shelfplate. In the general notes from the SE docs it says that the beams should be "bedded onto a dry/level mortar bed". I've never seen a beam on a...

These guys seem to think that you can't just rest joists on light blocks. I did once find this advice on a website but I can't find it now Joists on light blocks :cautious:

I've been intending to put flat roof joists (metal web joists) on my aerated blocks (5.2N IIRC). Some blocks say you should sit them on 4mm neoprene or roofing felt, but the manufacturer of my blocks doesn't seem to know how I should put the joists on the blocks. Is the 4mm felt etc. a standard...

I'm going to do a symmetrical padstone. About 400mm wide (200mm on each side). I'll put the wall ties in the blocks each side, which will be about 225mm from the corner.

I know concrete can be any height. I would be a bit worried about putting a hole in the shuttering for the wall tie. I don't want the cavity filling up with concrete . Also, although the extra concrete wouldn't be much, it would add to the weight that the shuttering would need to support. IIRC...