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  1. J

    22mm hot for my bath...

    Min dynamic pressure 0.2 bar according to the manual. So you're saying try it without a pump? I actually already have a pump in the loft for the ensuite shower so tapping into that supply for the bath would be fine, and it might well work better off the pump anyway?
  2. J

    22mm hot for my bath...

    Thanks for the reply Steve. If I used a pump, would both the hot and cold need to be pumped, or can I just pump the hot? Also if the valve inputs are in 1/2" BSP do I just run 15mm hot and cold feeds to the valve and not bother with 22mm for the hot? (assuming I pump it)
  3. J

    22mm hot for my bath...

    Hi, I'm re-fitting my bathroom. I have a 22mm hot feed from the tank in the loft for the bath. I have a thermostatic valve for the bath (a bath filler waterfall system that goes on the wall). The connections into this for the hot and cold are 1/2" BSP with a 1/2" BSP output. Will this slow...
  4. J

    Radiator pinhole advise

    Hi all, I recently moved a radiator that had been in the kitchen for years, to a new bedroom. The radiator matches all the other radiators upstairs. It seems that whilst the radiator has been stored that it has got damaged on the bottom or it has a corrosion issue, as I now have a tiny leak...
  5. J

    When does a lintel need fireboarding?

    Hi all, I'm undergoing a 2 story extension at the moment. The builder has long finished building me a shell. Anyway I've pretty much finished decking out the downstairs element which included fireboarding a fair bit of structural steel. Upstairs I have a breakthrough from the top of my stairs...
  6. J

    Need to infill gap before installing bifolds

    Thanks for the reply. Yeah I've bought 2100mm high ones at a very good price. Made to measure put a significant increase on the price compared to what I've paid. Frank - Thanks for the reply, that's exactly what I was thinking. Basically it would be a spacer rather than taking any sort of load.
  7. J

    Need to infill gap before installing bifolds

    Hi all, I'm fitting bifolds 3m wide by 2.1m high into my house. The issue is I have an imperial sized opening on the height, so it's around 25-30mm too large. They are top hanging bifolds. Ideally I'd fill the gap at the top so that I don't create a step at the bottom. Any advice on what to...
  8. J

    Roof insulation

    Thanks Woody. Ceiling level it is then. Yeah not planning to occupy either roof space, with the exception of a sun tunnel coming through the top roof void. Main thing was I wanted to check that rafter ventilation isn't part of the regs these days.
  9. J

    Roof insulation

    Hi all, I'm nearing the end of my extension. I'm having a new roof section at the top of the house that merges into the existing roof. I'm also having a new ground floor pitched roof at the back of the house. I've been trying to research insulation regulations but I can't find a clear answer...
  10. J

    Screed preperation for floor

    Thanks. Still not 100% sure what I'm going to do. I'd like to be able to leave the screed and quarry tiles in place and pour a levelling compound over the top. However I'm worried that the existing screed is a bit dodgy in places. I've knocked some of it up and its only 30mm or so deep with a...
  11. J

    Screed preperation for floor

    Thanks for the reply. So are you saying I could put down the screed, and then put a liquid DPM on top (before smoothing compound) which will mitigate against the long drying time? I might just go straight into a deep fill levelling compound. Something that does up to 50mm like this product...
  12. J

    Screed preperation for floor

    Hi all, I've posted about screed / self levelling compound advice in the building forum: http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/screed-self-levelling-compound-help.439900/ I was advised to come here when asking about drying time of screed before progressing with my Karndean preparation. What's the...
  13. J

    Screed / self levelling compound help

    So basically where there's screed, rip it up and relay it so I need less self levelling compound at the end? I had thought about doing that (it would certainly save £££ on levelling compound). My main concern though is drying time for screed. How long would you recommend? I've read some long...
  14. J

    Screed / self levelling compound help

    That is an option. So basically you're saying, bring the concrete level up? That's not something I'd considered as I'd assumed it would be liable to cracking, same as a thin screed? If I remove the tiled area including screed then I'll be left with about 50-60mm depth to fill in about half the...
  15. J

    Screed / self levelling compound help

    Hi all, I'm in the middle of an extension. I'm opening up a kitchen diner space as well extending it. This leaves me with multiple floor levels with internal walls grounded. Part of this is made up of quarry tile, part made up of solid concrete, and part made up of existing screed. I'm...
  16. J

    Advice on new 4 riser staircase

    Thanks for the reply. Not sure on whether I'll put a newel in or just have the return section flush with the top stair, and no "barrier" as such.
  17. J

    Advice on new 4 riser staircase

    I mean because part of the string would stick out into the existing staircase and at the top because they're not against the wall. See the 2 bits I've circled in the picture below. That's the way its working in my head anyway. I'd be concerned that trimming that top bit would lose strength...
  18. J

    Advice on new 4 riser staircase

    Hi all, I'm in the middle of my extension. Builder is doing the brickwork, steels, roof, floor, and I'm doing the rest. My existing staircase is a straight staircase with a small landing near the top and then a 4 stair riser to the right onto the existing landing. There's a new bedroom which...
  19. J

    Connecting kitchen waste and drainpipe to new manhole

    If I run my 40mm waste and my 68mm drainpipes straight into 110mm adaptors under floor level, do I still need traps under ground level or are they OK to run straight into my inspection chamber? What is the criteria to have traps under ground level versus running straight into the chamber? Thanks
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