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Sounds like a sensible plan was thinking a little distance after the pump and before the zone valves might be appropriate for one. Second one perhaps on the return but before or after the bypass valve connection point?

Cheers, I had done that so in theory water should have been able to flow around the system

It's been temperamental from day 1 since I've owned it, there was usually 1 rad (it varied between a couple of them) that wouldn't get warm, but sometimes they all would. We knew there was air problems due to constant gurgling in pipes and often the boiler would lock out due to air. Sometimes...

Will get pics tomorrow, btw the plumbing in general is an absolute mess and will be completely renewed in some years. However think it is 'correct' Will try and check for blockages tomorrow as well, the pump impellor manually spins easily and also spins electrically (can hear and feel it) it's...

Cylinder coil - yes, there is a manual air vent connected at the top of the coil, just bleeds water no air. Its the only air vent around tho, perhaps some AAVs would help? Magnet - I know the F&E pipe isn't blocked as I've seen the tank empty rapidly with the main draincock open, but good shout...

Hi all, Got a nightmare situation with a central heating system I recently adopted. It's an open vent S plan system with a combined F&E pipe, with a Worcester greenstar danesmoor 18/25 oil boiler. Covers 10 radiators mostly large double panels, some towel rails and smaller rads too, as well as...

Hi all, Recently had an oil boiler moved to make space in the room, the plumber that did it insisted that the oil pipes need bonding however I'm not so sure. Property has TT earthing. My understanding was that pipes generally only need bonding if they are extraneous, i.e. are metal and run...

Hi all, I've got an atag IR24 conventional gas boiler. Recently due to the warmer weather, I turned down the set CH water temp to 70⁰C rather than the 80⁰C we set it to for the winter (might seem high but we need it fairly high as the rads are on microbore pipe and don't get hot quickly enough...

Recently used a V Pro paired with Philips warm glow lamps, no flickering or buzzing and they dim nicely, however it does take a second or two for them to actually switch on, not a problem with the lamps, have tried various lamps they all take a while to come on

Hi all, I'm helping my friend do up an old house he bought a couple months ago and obviously we need to have mains powered smoke detectors installed. I'd just like to ask a couple of questions about the type we need and their placement. Firstly the upstairs landing is literally about 1m^2 and...

Yes I'm certainly aware that it's expensive! I would have just gone for soft insulation and loft legs and just cope with a small amount of headspace but he (and the Mrs) are pretty set on wanting to use board insulation. We could go up to 120mm as that's the joist width but it seems harder to find.

Hi all, I'm helping a friend renovate an old house he bought and our next project is to insulate a loft that will be used for storage after replacing the ceiling. There is limited headspace up there, so to maximise usability we were planning on using kingspan/celotox type insulation board in...

Have you paid him? If not, don't pay him a penny. That report is absolutely ridiculous no testing at all appears to have been carried out as the circuit sheet is blank and there's no way all of those items can be a C1. Out of interest could you post a pic of your consumer unit?

I don't believe for a second that any electrician would do what's been done in that picture. As others have suggested it could be the homeowner attempting to steal electricity and getting it wrong, and then trying to blame the electrician. Either way, someone is definitely trying to pull a fast one.

It is not clear whether or not you are planning to put a 13a FCU next to the socket you will be taking a spur from, and then feeding the shed from that FCU? It is important to do so so that you don't overload that point on the ring. It will of course mean you are limited to a total of 13a in the...

You should use a connector block to terminate and secure the unused live wire.

It looks like the old floodlight could either be operated manually by a switch or automatically by the sensor. Therefore you have a permanent live, a switched live, a neutral, and an earth in the 3core+earth cable. The new floodlight only has one live connection, so it will only switch on...

It's a good idea to have a double pole switch inside to isolate power to the socket in case it fills up with water or something which would trip the RCD, so you can switch it off until its repaired and reset your RCD. In an ideal world it would be nice to run a circuit to the socket from an RCBO...

Consider the two types of fault an RCD trips for. A 30mA RCD will actually usually trip at around 23mA but the socket RCD and house RCD will trip at slightly different values, so the one with a lower value would trip first if you have a small leakage fault (such as water between live/neutral...

No, there is no point at all having an RCD socket if the circuit already has RCD protection. It is just one more thing to go wrong and annoying to have to reset each time before use. I have the BG one and it's good, yes the clips are tight but they need to be to keep it waterproof. Edit: It is...