Search results

My architect has specified a precast concrete door cill with a weatherstop to go under the front door. We had some custom precast stone cills put under the windows, but he says this would be a more off the shelf item, since you won't see it being under the door. I'm really struggling to...

I have two small ventilation heat recovery units. Only large enough to extract and supply to one room each per unit I have to fit a condensate trap to the underside of the unit, and then connect into the waste (one SVP and one RWP downpipe). I don't know why this is still such a...

Hi everyone Searched web but can't find an answer to this question. Why would you use a 3 stage process over a 2 stage jointing process for plasterboard? 2 stage seems so much simpler. Is it a cost issue? In addition, what is the best product for external angles greater than 90...

That's great TPT, thanks

I know this is the most asked question, but I have trawled the web and one thing is still not clear. I do understand that all tiles are "ceramic", but should typically be categorised as "porcelain" and "Non-porcelain". But for arguments sake I'll use "ceramic" and "porcelain" So it...

I have some Reisser woodcutter screws for fixing my hardiebacker boards to the stud wall. They are passivated. They will be tiled over with watewrproof tile adhesive. Should I be using stainless screws or will these be ok? And what are the hardiebacker screws coated with? Thanks

Just put a link to the sketch in original post

Hi all Relative newbie to carpentry. I gather that a few geometric and mathematical tools are handy in setting out a perpendicular stud wall such as the 3-4-5 rule, or using radii such as suggested here: http://www.fine-woodworking-for-your-home.com/Geometry.html That's fine, but I want...

I couldn't agree more. I went to see a local insurance company who used to do liability insurance for my dad as a tradesman. But she wanted to know if I was employed or self employed. I assumed I was self employed, but then I went to the HMRC site about being employed or self employed...

Hi all I started work for a small building company a little over a year ago now. After only a few months with the company, I was thrown in at the deep end and given a site to manage. All the guys onsite including myself are either self employed or agency. The guys who are self...

Hi Our structural engineer has specified double 50 x 175mm joists at 400cc for our span of 4.5m for a small portion of the floor where the floor is unsupported from below. The problem is that the width between the remaining single joists which either span over a block wall or are short...

Given the acceptance that this is a problem, I decided to go ahead and repair the whole thing. I cut a hole on the wall, which gave me access with a hammer drill. I chiselled away the bottom of the mortar to firstly check if there was indeed a wall tie, and a split in the dpc. I then cut back...

We were instructed to fill the cavity wall around the steel where it sits in the cavity with strong mortar (sharp sand & cement 2.5 : 1), since the steel hadn't been galvanised, and this would protect it from corrosion. DPC lined both the outer leaf and the steel beam to prevent transmission...

Hi thanks for your advice about cutting bricks with a bolster. Gave it a try but I'm struggling. If you get time, could you take a look at videos I posted of my efforts (which are poor)? Thanks

I'm willing t learn so I got myself a new bricklayers bolster with beveledge. But I'm not having much luck. London bricks seem pretty easy to cut straight, but Funton Facing bricks seem too hard/brittle. He are my attempts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgslggJ41rM&feature=youtu.be...

That's useful to know. Requires me learning the skill, then teaching the guys onsite, but I'm willing to give it a go. I was wondering, what sort of bolster should I use. Are there brick specific ones or just a regular new bolster will do? And if you know of any good videos one web showing...