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Whats going on above? That bay corner post may be load bearing.

Render will be cheaper than jet fuel

I'd like to see a picture of this unconventional phenomenon of a single patch of mould behind a radiator and reoccurring even after the radiator has been removed. It's just not common or natural, and instead of looking for extravagant solutions, you may need to look at what you have done or...

Yes No Sometimes

The render is the waterproof layer, and if it's not performing as such then it's failed and should be renewed. Generally, paint won't adhere to common masonry water repellent systems such as silicones, silane and siloxanes, and even if it did, it will likely compromise the very hydrophobicity...

The whole point of the batten is to screw the tile joint clips into to hold the ridge tiles down, and 19mm seems a bit thin. The actual depth and thickness of the batten is specified by the system manufacturer and can depend on the type of ridge tile.

Not in the opening.

Search for "datum peg" and "setting out profiles". Start at the corners and work from them towards the middle of each elevation. 3:1 mix ratio. Make sure your line is not sagging on the sides where the beams will sit

The thread title says "Sick of Mould behind radiator", and the pedantic me can't ignore that, or the poor and incorrect capitalisation.

That studwork, if not designed to be load bearing, certainly is now and should be in turn supported by a suitable beam.

Extensions are normally tied with ties that allow for movement of the extension. The joint should have been a foam backer and mastic joint not a mortar joint, but for now, widen and deepen the crack a little and use a polymer or polysulphide mastic. For the rendered images, I'm not sure of the...

That's a most unusual and least expected place for condensation mould to occur. Lack of air-flow is part of the equation and conditions for a mould-growing environment, and the area behind a radiator is going to get not just a lot of air flow but be a very dry area too which condensation mould...

There is nothing wrong with a timber framed house, just differences compared to traditional, and some of those differences may or may not be significant to the occupants. Generally, timber frame is less adaptable to changes/alteration/improvement and more susceptible to damage from lack of...

Yes that's a bodge. Take some tiles up and put some felt, or lead under to cover the corner. Use bird-comb fillers to fill that triangle in the tile (or a proprietary filler piece if available), not foam which prevents drainage and moves water sideways

It looks like there are some plastic eaves protectors already fitted, so that would deal with one of the most common issues. So, the main thing to consider is whether there are localised areas that need repair, or whether the costs of any repairs would make whole renewal a more cost-effective...

Marley Delta. They are no longer available, and reclaimed will be the same age and condition - only good for repairs. They may be approaching notional life end, but that does not mean they need replacing if they are still performing and in good condition. Looks like an old council house with...

The edge is wrong. The felt on the kerb edge and the drained edge should be on top of the deck felt. That joint should not be there on the edge, it is vulnerable. The corners are poor, and the indentation shows lack of care.

It's a very basic detail, Google roof flashing. The type will depend on what tiles you use. Also Google cavity trays, as you'll need them. Be mindful of minium roof pitches. Also if that's your design, the fascia and barge boards are massively deep, and the eaves look way too low Good...

Yes, within reason

Roof membrane up the dormer, lead over this, dormer membrane over the lead, lead over or under the tiles depending on the tiles, render over the lead. Over and out.