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This is a former Victorian hot house, now being converted as a garden room. We've already reduced the chimney to about half height but I've noticed a crack running up the remainder. It doesn't reach the top or bottom for now and isn't actually functional, but I'd like to stop it getting worse...

We plan to replace the top deck on a warm-roof project. It is a standard setup currently T&G lower deck -> VPL -> PIR -> 18mm ply -> shingles and the ply will be re-laid with OSB and EPDM used so the new roof will retain the PIR and be virtually the same except using EPDM as the weatherproof...

Just to clarify, do I need to glue both sides or is it ok/best to glue one side only, then seal up to it on the other? I.e. is the glue only there to hold it in place so it can be sealed later?

Thanks, sounds I was trying to do 2 jobs at once no wonder it wasn't going well. The skeleton gun has always been my most hated tool. I've learned so much over the last few years but this always seems to go wrong no matter how careful I am or how much I watch others for advice

And then seal afterwards presumably. It's a big of a pain I've got to do this up a ladder, so pre gluing the sections I'm probably going to get up there and find it's stuck on my hand :) I was waving a 5' length around with a skeleton gun in the other hand like right idiot, decided I'd stop and...

I'm adding pvc quadrant trim to a large 2x1.5m uPVC window to weatherproof. I thought this would be the easy finishing touch but I'm having a right time getting the adhesive on a long bendy bit of plastic neatly! Should I be getting glue (I'm using white Sticks Like ****) on both sides to stick...

I had not realised this (that it should be done or was my responsibility). The company said exactly the same thing and that often they charge to do it on larger projects. Well we have had this scaffold for over 6 months and this is the top lift. I don't know how long it takes to fail but it...

When I upload the same file directly from my phone (which is often larger than what's in Google) it works fine. I _think_ the issue is the forum is not taking a copy of the image just a link to it.

3-4 feet it looks like, what I can see from this room. It seems like localised rot as the rest of the board is solid, bit of a crack was maybe holding water. I've been on it as have various trades several times and never noticed it until my foot went right through it today :) Should a...

Well the PIR products all have thermal conductivity of about 0.02 across the market and when I look at Kingspan therma range, their wall/floor products have the same compression rating of 140 (the roof version is only 100). Their premium Kooltherm floor board is 120 so realistically it seems...

I've had a full-height scaffold on my house for several months. Up on the top eaves-height lift today, I had the quite scary experience of a plank snapping directly under me. A very lucky escape as the snap was right in the middle between two supports . Inspecting the plank it was rotten in the...

Thanks @Notch7 I hadn't considered that at all. It makes sense, but would laying slim joists directly on the concrete be better? I quite like the idea to keep wood off the concrete just in case of damp

Cheers. For a small project like this, is specific floor pir like ThermaFloor going to make a real difference? Load is just going to be a few people, no heavy furniture

I keep my photos in Google Photos and I know you can't copy paste the link in a post as they're private, but Chrome let's you copy paste an image instead of a link. E.g into paint or a word doc or an online forum. Except it doesn't work here, see my post...

Thanks for the heads up. Bloody Google, I'll fix 2mrw

The old hothouse I'm restoring into a garden room has a solid concrete floor. The way it's built into a slope, half is a slab on the ground and the other half is suspended (see a couple of photos below. Internal footprint is ~2.75x5m and I've never used PIR like this before, is it load-bearing...

How would you find the holes accurately for the rawl plugs? Put the board in position and pre-drill all the way into the wall, remove to fit the rawls, and put back? Fixings which avoid the need seem to be a winner - I think concrete screw is the fixing I didn't know about for this job.

I want to add internal insulation to solid-brick walls. They are plastered and papered in good condition and I don't really want to strip that off. I want to minimise the depth added so I don't want to batten on top of PIR boards - thinking 40-50mm PIR (based on rough U value calcs). Insulated...

If it's not completely snapped off then it's worth a go. As others have said the plant will regrow quickly otherwise. I've done this once or twice and had ok results.

Thanks, that would be about ideal actually. Would I be best screwing perpendicular to the angled piece, or perhaps mending strips (if that's the right term I've never used them) are better like you see on fabricated trusses?