Search results

OK. I mainly wanted to check that it didn't need an upwards expansion pipe. Thankyou for the tip re Denmans, if ever I need parts.

Oooh, that shows up better in the pic than it does in the cupbd... it's Steeple. Is that a make?

Oh! So that's why I've had problems with pics in another forum. Thankyou. Well, I am a bit of a techno-nitwit. Should be able to see it now. Thanks regarding the piping.

Our electric water heater is mains fed by a pipe that comes down from the attic. I want to get rid of it as it trails across the walls of two bedrooms (very old house). There is a mains pipe in the cellar I can use. Any problem feeding from below rather than above? This is the heater. The...

I found a Pur..... something... water filter in the 15mm mains feed to our mixer tap in the kitchen. Can only see part of one end at the moment, hence the Pur.... At least ten years old, could be a lot more. It's completely inaccessible behind a cupbd so there was no thought of changing the...

So I removed the battery from the control panel, then turned the power off... and the external siren starts up. Arrrgh. After 16 years the d..d battery is still good. Took off the cover, did what I needed to the wall, put it back. Was tempted to start pulling the wires, next time I'll make a...

Here's the box. Dates from 2005.

I need to remove the external alarm box/siren for maintenance of the wall to which its attached. Presumably if I use the engineer code, switch off the mains to the panel and remove the control panel battery I will be OK? The battery in the siren box, if any, is fifteen years old and hopefully...

I left it a week to do the second coat. No hollow spots when I tap it. Seems OK. Second coat 5:1 as I said, but 4:1 for lime.

It will be OK if there's rain, it's under the overhang of the thatch. Do you think two days is too soon for the top coat? Don't want to pull it off the wall when the top coat dries.

Rendagrip yesterday, left a day to dry. Scratch coat on this morning. Very little suction. Slow drying. Waited two hours to scratch it. Not sure how much grip it's got on the wall really. Feels strange with so little suction. Will leave it until day after tomorrow to put the top coat on.

Ahh yes, even better. I checked the data sheet and there is no problem over paint. And I can wait until it's dried. Bit cheaper at Sealants & Tools Direct https://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/everbuild-507-rendagrip-extra-grip-render-bonding-coating-rendgp10 I'll still strip as much of the...

Thankyou. I checked the data sheet of Bostik PVA (used to be Rendabond) and it says for outside work to use Bostik SBR, so I just bought some. The first job went OK, but I have more to do with the same paint problem and I really don't want more days with the scabbler, so thankyou.

I should take my specs when I go shopping... the small print, or considering the space taken up by the H&S crap, the tiny print.... when I got the SBR home, it says 'Do not use over painted surfaces'. So I hired a needle scabbler and removed the rest of the paint. Not a job I'd want to do...

Hehe, OK, any particular brand or are they all the same? V8

Block wall, 60s. Sound cement render then old masonry paint. Got a lot of the paint off, but can't get rid of all the mist coat. Need to render over the render, to add 3/4" of thickness. 4:1:1 cement lime sand then 5:1:1 I think I should start with a bonding agent. SBR seems to be a favourite...

Got in touch with Adshead Ratcliffe who make Arbo products. They recommend their Arbomeric MP20 with their 2650 primer. Temporary link to data sheet here file:///C:/Users/Duarte/AppData/Local/Microsoft/Windows/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/Content.IE5/D4Q27LYG/Arbomeric%20MP20.pdf I've used...

Well one would think so. But the joints in the timber frame of our 1620 cottage mostly have no pegs in them, or if they do the pegs are only on the internal face. Our previous house - 1921 - was mock Tudor, they were fixed with clouts knocked into the lime mortar. No holes to drill, no...

Should have mentioned... this is at ground floor level. So fixings/plugs would be very visible, otherwise yes I'd counterbore, fix, and plug. I wonder if Arbo have an adhesive. Flexible is a good point. I'll ask them.

I want to create some bogus half-timbering on the outside of a 60s ground-floor extension. Mock Tudor. Wood, then render between. The wall is hard concrete block with sound cement render, masonry painted. I plan to use cedar because it's stable - not likely to warp and won't rot. About...