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Thanks. It’s a deep void so I was going to put 200mm on top of 100mm sound insulation. (I’ve since read that it was a waste of time when others did it) When you say ‘better than that’ do you mean better than just having it under the insulation?

Having lifted more board, there are 2.5mm cables, for the bedroom sockets and the kitchen sockets (two separate circuits). No cooker cable, it’s gas. Having searched a few posts, someone proposed laying plasterboard over their cable (which is already lying on the plasterboard), thereby...

Thank you all. Great advice, much appreciated.

Murdochcat - the kitchen will be renovated next year. I have a rough idea so I planned to put cable in position but the layout may change so I don’t want to start fitting them now. EFLImpudence - It is 6A and the cable is solely for the kitchen lights, the other downstairs lights are on a...

Hello I want to put some rolls of insulation in the ceiling void between the kitchen and the bedroom above, primarily to dampen the clatter in the kitchen. The lighting cable is currently lying loose. What is the best way to ensure the cable won’t overheat. At some point the kitchen will...

Thanks. It’s a flat surface. Maybe because it was cheap, although it was the only one that had the right diameter. I’ve left it loose for now, it’s showing more sign of returning into position than when tight.

Hello I’ve just had to fit a replacement flush valve on a toilet with a lever handle. Previously it had a mechanical arm but this is a dual flush valve with a cable. When I hand tighten the inside nut towards the handle, it’s too tight to flush, when I loosen it, it wobbles. Either way...

Ah yes, single post, just like the one earlier on in the thread. I’ll check before replying next time. But since I’m here, the TG4 22mm is pretty solid stuff. It’s expensive but worth considering as an alternative to chipboard overlaid with backerboard. Plus you don’t have to support the joins.

I hope it is, that’s why I got it! It’s a cement board but thick enough to not need a sub floor. This from the product spec:

Hmm, you've got me thinking.. I like the idea of TV and cabling there... Thanks. Thanks to everyone, very helpful (y)

Thanks for the replies. I can’t quite picture that, does that mean I would keep an alcove? My preference would be a flat plasterboarded wall. Could I just dig down inside and though to the void within the room, then conceal with plasterboard and skirting? Venting externally doesn’t seem...

Hello. Years ago, to make way for a loft conversion, an internal chimney stack/breast was removed and taken down to the floor level of the loft. There’s no ventilation at the top nor in the bedroom it passes through. On the ground floor room is an unused fireplace that I’d now like to block...

Thank you. I think I’ve got it in my head now. One last question - Google AI says to position the receivers ‘at least 1 metre away from large metal objects’. Er, like a cylinder or a boiler?

It’s too late to get power showers but please could you point me in the direction of pressurising the hot coil please? Everything I’ve read about vented cylinders says the tank has to be above all hot water outlets.Thanks

Thanks for all the replies. I’m trying to keep up! I don’t fancy the idea of an annual call out either (or pressurised boiling water flying about!) but with vented, wouldn’t the water tank need to be higher than the top floor shower? That wouldn’t be possible, plus I’d have access issues...

Forgive my ignorance but I assume the cylinder thermostat is built in to the cylinder? So I run 5 core cable from the valve positions as well as the cylinder position, all back to the boiler position? And should the thermostat cable be 1mm not 0.75? Does it need to be in conduit or are there...

Thanks. Currently a 35kw combi boiler only but there’ll be 3 showers. I got a G3 plumber out to talk about adding an indirect cylinder, he thought the boiler would be up to it. I’m not so sure so I thought I’d lay the groundwork anyway. I’ve extended the CH pipes and cold water inlet to...

Thanks ericmark. I wasn’t thinking of ‘smart’ TRVs on the rads themselves but a type of gate valve that sits on a branch pipe of the CH flow. So say the back of the house is cold, it would allow CH flow to that branch but be closed to the branch to the warm front of the house until the...

Hello Hopefully this is not one for the plumbing forum. In the future I may add an indirect hot water cylinder and zones to my central heating using motorised valves so want to be sure the cabling is in place. Given the layout of the pipework the valves would be at the branches and not the...

Hello Following on from the advice I've had previously as regards inadequate 15mm CH pipework (thank you), I've now got as far as I can go with 22mm on the downstairs run. Luckily there was some 22mm copper in place partway through an area below a tiled floor, but it drops to 15mm where I...