Search results

Changing the washer on a mono "swan neck" mixer tap, similar to this: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/41894/Kitchens/Kitchen-Taps/Contract-Mono-Sink-Mixer-Taps-White The nut that holds the washer mechanism is refusing to budge. What's the best way of holding the base in position, so I can...

So you reckon the joint will take it if I just go at it with a wrench?

I presume the gland nut is the uppermost nut (see pic). I'll try this, but I'm terrified of breaking a joint in the pipework if I use too much pressure. Stopcock is soldered in. Replacing it would mean getting the hacksaw out.

You mean the chrome nut on a brass connector? It's up in the loft, so I'm not worried about it looking pretty. I was thinking that maybe chrome and brass have different expansion properties, and that mixing fittings was a definite no no.

I had a burst pipe last month and fitted a 300 mm flexible connector as a temporary fix. I have now replaced this with a length of copper pipe (see pic). Everything is watertight, but thinking back, I may have broken some good plumbing guidelines. * Is it OK to reuse the existing olive...

A stop cock/tap in the loft is seized up. It's similar to this type, basically a brass tap with compression fittings: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/31490/Plumbing/Brassware/Flowflex-15mm-Stop-Cock I've tried WD40. Any other ideas?

[/url] As the iso valve is on the cold water mains pipe, is a full bore valve needed? A cheapo valve might restrict flow to the cistern, maybe?

I might replace it with something more expensive. Maybe one of those Pegler valves, with a bigger handle. Like this: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13103/Plumbing/Brassware/Full-Bore-Lever-Ball-Valve-15mm

I fitted an isolation valve on the mains water feed, next to the cold water tank in the loft. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/89226/Plumbing/Brassware/Flowflex-Isolating-Valve-With-Handle-15mm I've just noticed that I fitted it with the arrow in the wrong direction. The arrow points down to...

I'm not sure. Maybe because I had a burst pipe. I removed some loft insulation, so maybe the loft is warmer than it should be?

I meant the bottom inch on the sides of the tank, where most of the condensation collects.

My plastic water tank in the loft has a "padded" sleeve, plus a plastic top which I made myself. On some mornings, there is still a lot of condensation at the bottom of the tank, where it sits on the plywood platform. As far as i can see, the condensation has not run down the tank to the...

To my amateur eye: Surely, if the olive joint fails, then PFTE on the thread will keep the joint watertight. So the PFTE on the thread acts as a back up in this case. Also, won't a wrap of FTPE on the thread make a tap connector connection more secure?

Ok, I might think about changing my compression joint technique by using a wrap of PFTE around the olive.

To stop a long thread, I willassume that it comes down to preference in the end.

So far in my limited DIY plumbing career I have been using the following procedure for compression joints: 1 wrap of PFTE around the male connector Hand tighten Tighten 1 turn using spanners It seems to work most times :) But I have read a lot of posts from people who wrap a turn the...

I think modern floats must use a different thread to the old one. I went to Homebase and bought a slightly different design of float. I eventually managed to force it on and get it threaded on fast. 5 mins job, took me about 2 hours!