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I ran some 25mm flexi conduit for 2 outside lights before I lined and plastered the wall. I didn't leave pull wires in them as thought they weren't needed for such a small run. I didn't realise the inner face is not smooth and where the conduit bends at a right angle to go through the wall I...

Hi I have a EV charger to be installed. The cable will pop through the external wall drop down a conduit approximately 1.5m long then run under the floor void back to the CU. Charger requires a 6mm twin and earth and I want to run a cat6 with it. If the sleeving is removed to the section run...

Thanks for all the help. Sorry to have caused so much trouble. 2 rings both of 2.5mm to split the load between 1) kitchen/utility and 2) island. Hopefully this will have all bases covered.

Hi the cables are run within a traditional timber floor clipped to the joists with PIR insulation above but not in contact with the cables. They are then run up pvc conduits to final connection points at various heights. If the electrcian splits the kitchen and the island on 2 rings they would...

Thanks for the advice on the containment etc. I had a chat with the electrician and he acknowledges some of the concerns raised regarding loads (mainly the hot tap). He sticks by the original plan of 1 ring main for kitchen/utility/island, but is happy to put the island on a 2nd ring main if i...

Its a new install in a refurbishment/extension. Ovens and hobs are on separate supplies. The chances of everything being used at the same time are fairly low.

I have just re read my post from earlier and think i may have caused some confusion as to what is in the island. The single ring main currently suggested by the elctrician for the Kitchen/Utility/Island is split (Location wise) as below; Fridge (Kitchen) Freezer (Kitchen) Extractor (Kitchen) 2...

I was going to leave a coil of 2-3m for the spark to have some movement when the kitchen is installed to locate the points. He can cut it back to suit. The electrician has the island as part of the kitchen/utility loop which consists of Fridge Freezer Washing Machine Tumble Drier Dishwasher...

I have an island as part of my kitchen coming in a few months but am getting it wired in preparation now. The island will have a fridge (left hand unit), dishwasher (right hand unit) and hot tap and waste disposal unit (center unit). Is it best to leave a coil of cable popping up through the...

Should i suggest something smaller 6mm?

Thanks. I think i follow this. They plan to install 2.5mm for the 3 ovens and 10mm for the hob. So whilst the 10mm is overkill there is also no issue with it (bar a slight increase in the material cost).

The hob is rated at 11KW. I dont pretend to know how the technical side of it works i am just used to seeing fat cables to ovens and hobs in the past so was concerned they were undersized at 2.5mm. Am i ok to proceed?

With the 1st fix plumbing complete I turned my attention to closing up the bathrooms. The stud partitioning was lined with ply then all walls lined with tile backer board before installing the shower tray former, decoupling membrane, UFH and levelling the floors ready for tiles to be laid...

Before the plumber left he piped up the cylinder in the loft. This sits above the bathroom and where the original was located. I formed a timber platform spanning the 2 loadbearing walls which seems to have held up nicely. He also connected the mains and t'd off to give me a garden feed and also...

Sorry I didn't mention, the hob will be on a separate circuit using 10mm T&E on a 50 amp breaker.

From looking at the literature the ratings are as below; Microwave oven 2.2kw Steam oven 3.2kw Main Oven 3.5kw All are on their own supply. Spark has recommended 2.5mm T&E on 16amp breakers

Thanks for the quick response. 2.5mm it is then.

Hi, I just had my electrician size the cables for my new kitchen supplies. They have suggested 2.5mm T&E for the oven supply. When i questioned this (as i have only ever seen far beefier cables in ovens) they said that 2.5mm is normal now days for ovens as they are far more efficient and the...

The dpc is about 600mm above outside floor level and oversite. It's a suspended timber floor coming in to the inner skin of blockwork

I am about to have my rear doors installed. The threshold sits 1 course above dpc. The photo below shows the cavity below the threshold. Should I fill this with 100mm jablite or similar before putting the doors in? Or leave as a empty cavity for 1ft below doors