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Thanks guys, I need to get stuck in to this concrete anyway as the plonkers bridged the DPC when they laid the ramp. I'm wondering if I can kill two birds with one stone..... as per the pic the washing machine's new drain position will be just the other side of that door, before the brown vent...

Hi, Want to move washing machine to an external wall, right behind which my 4" sewer runs outside under the path. I normally wouldn't mind hacking out the 6" or so thickness of concrete path but on top of that there has been an additional 8 inches minimum thick concrete disabled access ramp...

That is a chunk of cash, if it were half the price it would prob be a no brainer, but yeah if my next job was £800 worth I’d be stalling …. but now knowing how much easier and neater the tape makes the job it would be even more frustrating to decide to save the cash. If more and more folk use it...

I recently used it for the first time in a vaulted ceiling. Only needed one box and winced at the price..... but felt it was totally worth the much easier job that entailed. Every bit just popped in snugly first time with no buggering around and much less mess. Not sure if a new trick or not but...

Others may elaborate but generally Building Regs come in to it when you change a room to become a “Habitable” room. Even if you don’t intend to use it as such BC take the view that subsequent owners / renters will and therefore regs will apply at the time of doing the work. Planning is only...

Sounds like you are literally doing almost exactly what I have recently done...... but I involved building regs and advised house insurance company I had an additional habitable room. It's worth doing, and will ensure you end up with a great job rather than just a reasonable job..... plus save a...

See how things are and what the plasterer says once you get the paper off. My last place was Victorian and had considerable damp / mould in some areas when I bought it and I feared the worse when I finally got round to stripping it all off..... needn't have worried as the walls / plaster behind...

Decided to re-board the floor in this walk through / hall way which was previously a bedroom - as it was badly laid - I'm laying new laminate flooring through this room in to the room shown beyond. Everything from the arch threshold and beyond is a brand new extension with highly insulated floor...

I used this recently for my first time doing coving -...

If an extension is not being ruled out long term then if it were me I'd do the bare minimum for now to get the washing machine in there, without really seeing how good / bad the leaks are its hard to say but if theres a decent dry area where an extension lead could be run to then maybe consider...

Looks a decent space, but would you want a garage long term? If not then rather than trying to repair it - which might cost in the very low £1,000s - maybe consider going for it and having a proper extension built - either a full room or part workshop / part utility. Ok you are looking at 10s of...

By vaulting the ceiling in that area an enclosed "Cold Roof" system is made, moist air moving from the warm room space below can form condensation when it gets to cold surfaces, ljke the upper roof section in that photo. There needs to be air movement to get rid of that condensation.

Yep, they look good and are simple for me to fit (y) So just on to plasterboard - for the vaulted roof and rear wall section as they effectively back on to cold areas is vapour-check plasterboard recommended / required?. I'm using foil backed PIR insulation already but don't want any issues. If...

Thanks. I was thinking more like below though, which would be very easy to do as it's all easy access. Black squiggle is sealing off the end of the warm roof insulation - my understanding is it needs to be sealed in but hoping to get confirmed. Orange squiggle is linking up insulation to...

Hi - the existing Alutrix barrier on top of the deck is the specified warm roof makeup - so as not to rely on the PIR alone, apparently it's the norm? but as per the red X in sketch above I've yet to seal that end off - other 3 ends are all sealed up as part of the roof build which was done by...

Here's where we are at - except I've yet to install the vaulted roof insulation. The red cross is where I'm asking if I need to seal it up so the Alutrix Vapour barrier completely envelopes the warm roof insulation, which is my understanding it should be and keeps it separate from the cold roof...

Any thoughts chaps, hoping to order the plasterboard in a couple of days. Ta.

Do you know how long this has been happening? Others here are prob a bit more experienced and hopefully will respond but I'd say as long as you get it fixed reasonably soonish it is unlikely to have caused much long term issues, things should eventually soak away / dry out.

So if someone could just check I'm on the right track - would love to get this finished for Xmas....summer was the original plan :giggle: 1 - Seal up the end of that warm roof insulation with the vapour barrier - or is there some reasoning in leaving it exposed to that cold area giving it some...

I’m thinking wait till the infill bricks are gone and then with the larger space the lintel might sit in better visually. Also in my mind it depends on what else is happening on that whole wall, depending on how busy or sparse it will all be and what you want to be the main features that stand...