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@opps Thanks for the opinion. Very useful. The Dulux water based paint I tried was more like water than paint and did not cover well. I have used the DIY Crown and it goes on fine but just wears off in parts. Admittedly, some parts have not been painted in a while so that could be part of the issue.

I have not heard of this before. A quick Google and looks like it could be useful

I will have a look into the Dulux. I think I bought some years ago (not trade) and it wasn't up to much and went back to Crown.

I have been using Crown non-drip satinwood paint for the woodwork in the house, but have noticed that it is not resilient to being wiped too many times - mainly on the sharp edges of the architrave and skirtings. This paint is water based as the wife gets a headache with the oil based paint and...

Is this just a two-tone beep once every couple of minutes? Tamper fault could be sounder, zone wiring or keypad / panel tamper. Can you loop out the tamper zone in the panel?

Tap the wall with your knuckle - you will hear where the solid parts are. I have been lucky running TV cables where I wanted them, but I had to change plans for the alarm system as there was just a mass of dab just where I want the cable runs to go and I didn;t want to patch a large area

I have mechanical TRV - one I think is stuck open and the others are OK. I now have a mismatched set that might as well be changed when I change the rads or have the system drained down to sort the blockages

Indeed not, but I am thinking of having a look at the pipes myself, so whist drained down I can swap a few over. I think the thinking was that if the rads are corroded, then it would remove the possibility of chunks of corroded material coming away and blocking again. Ah yes, good point...

Question of two parts: With the on-going saga of cold / warm rads that a flush didn't fix (probably due to microbore and manifolds being blocked), it was suggested that at least some rads would benefit by being changed. This is a job that I can do myself, I feel. The bathroom and en-suite...

Just a question that has come into my head. Having had the Magnacleanse on the heating system, does it need to be flushed through with clean water before refilling and adding inhibitor

Would this be close to the HW tank? I have a feeling that there is something there but it may be just a manual valve to balance the system.

I think we have barrier pipe - I have seen a section of it and there is a darker ring . I am thinking large particles are in the system. I saw some when talking to the guy. There was some stuck to the filter that he showed me and he did say that with the lockshields only partially open to...

I think the heating guy said I had lazy returns so a blockage on those sounds probable. I am not really familiar with the Speedfit plumbing. Can these be disassembled and re-used?

If I can get to a manifold I might have a go at just flushing those affect pipes with mains water to see if I can clear them. Worth a try before pulling the hosue apart

That is my worry - spending mor emoney on something and getting the same result. I had my usual plumbers in a few years back for the same issue. They had boards (actually chipboard sheets) up in one bedroom and I think that there's a manifold in that area that would supply the bathroom the loo...

Well, just an update and request for thoughts. I had a plumbing company out yesterday to flush the system. I requested a quote for a power flush but the guys doing it did a Magnacleanse flush - not what I was expecting. They did get some sludge and metallic debris out and I saw bits passing...

Have you connected red to COM and black to L1 on switch 1, and brown to COM and blue to L1 on switch 2?

Neighbours had a replacement bay window fitted, but the roof appeared to have come away. I did not see how this happened so I am curious now. I expected to see timbers attached to the wall at least

I have a plumber sorted to flush the whole system. I think a manifold or two might be blocked so that needs sorting. I am not sure the good lady will wait until the summer to get the heating working properly ;) Heating is working in parts - two rads are cold, two are warm, others are toasty...

Conventional electromechanical thermostat and 7 say programmer with three periods per day. There's a 3-port motorised valve for HW / CH. Yes, gravity fed HW It would be interesting to know of options. I'm not particularly interested in smart controls, etc. About the only thing i might replace...