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Yes - get rid of the foil and let's see what's there - that's just a bodge by someone trying to fix an issue. With the correct fittings ( ideally not putty) it should be able to be sorted out. The drains may need a clean/jet out too, if it's that bad.

TBH I've never liked shock arresters, all they do is mask the issue IMO and they do need to be maintained, so for me it's just another component that can cause a problem, adds another level of complexity and it's then potentially another one to diagnose. If the hammer you are describing is that...

Absolutely - but if there is water hammer in the balanced cold then any pressure wave travelling up the balanced cold could force it's was past the NRV, which could also cause it to knock. If the hammer is being caused by outlet(s) on the balanced cold supply side then It has to be a pressure...

Pick a hole saw that's a few mm larger that the 3/4" BSP tap inlets but obviously smaller then the tap base collars. I'd usually use a 32-35mm cutter, leaves a little wiggle room.

Water hammer is caused by hydraulic shock, invariably where the pressure is higher and there is a valve that shuts down quickly. That quick shut down causes a pressure spike and creates a pressure wave and that will travel along and rattle any valves or loose pipework that it encounters until it...

Yes, as above, as long as there is a few mm of pipe past the edge of the olive

Yeah, same issue with 2 combi's though, and the issue with them is they won't run out of hot water.

As suggested, it all depends on the type you get. The flat plate type heads, which are usually the ones that are all steel, would normally require a high flow mains pressure shower and supply given the flat design and narrow waterways in the head to maintain a decent flow. With an Aqualisa Midas...

Well unfortunately that wouldn't have been the type of bath I would have fitted for an integrated shower. That really is trying to fit a square peg into a round hole. As you say though, it's what it is. Can you get a hold of that centre section of the plug mechanism with a pair of pliers, grips...

If the thermo valve is getting tight then, as suggested, probably time to replace it.

Just because there isn't a baton under the lip of the bath doesn't mean you can't add one, if needed and there's space, just use a bit of polymer adhesive and leave it 24hrs.

I would suggest that you open that up more and clear the boxing in all around it, that will give a better view of what space is available, how accessible it would be to try and break the stack at that branch for additional modifications and what else may fit in there, e.g. a double boss.

Get in there with a pump plunger and water, great for cleaning those out.

Who told you that??? ... and please Tony, no need to shout m8. There is a well documented and researched correlation between lead pipes and heavy metal leeching into drinking water. It has been proven countless times that lead pipes can and do leech heavy metal into the water in that...

An electric shower will never reach the output of a mains fed shower but It is all dependent on the mains and what that can deliver in terms of properly tested dynamic pressure and flow rates. A smaller combi, say 24kw, will deliver plenty of hot water for 1 shower so 2 of them may be ok and...

The latest ASHP's with their newer refrigerants can now obtain much higher flow temps, up to 70deg, which the industry has now designed, removing the need to incorporate new upgraded radiators and HW cylinders into the install, as it was with the older, cooler HP's and allow a much easier...

Certainly could - trouble is they don't tend to make wee bags of bonding coat - you can get wee bags of ready mix though.

Oh my - is that plaster with brick behind it? Mortar should do the job, pre mixed filler would probably end up cracking with a hole that size. Wet the area first before applying the mortar. Do a first fill leaving a few mm, then once it's dry then add a finishing layer.

To replace a £5 tap valve - they're having a laugh - don't be calling them back. They're at itI - In a monobloc tap maybe as in some cases there can be mixing before the valves but not in that bog standard deck mixer. Get someone else, could even be a handy man to do that but given what...

Given the tolerances marked on the can, I'm sure that would be fine. You taken over @just pumps role now ;)