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I have just thought, I could/will have a very visible switch near the radiator and then run a cable to the switch. From the switch an external cable to the radiator's heated element. I was hoping to be able to hide the "switch" and minimise the external cable. For the vanity unit's mirror...

I want to provide cables for a mirror light and a heated towel radiator into a new bathroom. I am trying to decide on the cable route. From the outside wall light switch, one cable running to the mirror and another cable running to the towel rail which is further away. For the routing, I have...

I have been adding noggins and supports, every foot or so, to pick up the edges of the ceiling boards. They are 37.5mm insulated boards, softer at the back, so we need good support for them. The whole process is a pain, especially on the side of the room over the cavity wall because I cannot...

The walls were in place before the ceiling joists and noggins were installed. I am fitting 12mm ply up on the ceilings and the plasterboards over, may be the ply will steady the plasterboards at their edges. Else, yes it would be a hassle... Yes it is called "hardwall" as per photo, snd then...

There will be no wall boards I am using hardwall. The gap is like 95-100mm.

Quite some time ago I hired a carpenter to build a flat roof over a couple of rooms. I am now looking at it and realise that i would have preferred the joists and noggins be flush against the walls so as to give me something to fix the edges of ceiling boards on. Now there is a gap all around...

That is exactly what I will do as i was quoted ridiculous prices for a gap fill... It is about £5 per can of foam. I wonder why they do not sell larger bottles.

Here is a better photo

The plumber channelled out a track in the wall for two heating pipes going upstairs. The track is deep into the 100mm blocks. I looked above and saw padstones and steels and got worried we have undermined the structure. So in panic, I added those straps as a band aid. How should I proceed to...

Not easy there are wall ties everywhere and the access is quite narrow, that is why I thought of using spray foam. But I would need quite a lot, so I'd need some sort of industrial machine, if there was one for hire. It is a flat roof structure tacked on the side of the house, under the gables...

I have built a single story, flat roof, side extension to the main house, approximately 9m x 4m. When we were building it (both house and extension were built at the same time) I did not think, and did not block off the cavity wall which is really an internal wall. That means there will be...

As on the photo, I have used a plastic cavity closer around the patio doors (and windows etc). I am not sure how to construct the reveal, as the plastic cavity closer is flimsy, and just sticking plasterboard over it will likely fall off. Maybe screw the plasterboard through the plastic closer...

I just had a look at my current house where I have lived past 3 years and have visited almost daily past 25 years, and only now am I observing that going into the kitchen, door opening is through a cavity wall, they have plastered the reveals, and the door lining is only placed at the one side...

I pulled myself up on that single 4x2 on the photo, and yes it flexes I'd say 10mm at least, I am 83.5kg. But it is a C16, tomorrow I am getting some C24 to see what difference it might make.

I have been installing normal door linings,, they are about 132mm wide, but now I need to install two door linings on a cavity wall which is nominal 300mm thick, rather than 100mm of the internal walls. I am not sure how to go about this. I am thinking the door lining will go over the one side...

Thanks, will do, I have tons of it left.

No, you are right. And the 4x2 on its edge will be stronger. I am going on site now to take a look.

I think it supports the landing, I will finish in 18mm or 25mm ply. The staircase man will add a 25mm-32mm "redwood" or some other material on it. I think on one side, that which is over the door as in the photo, it will be my platform taking the load.

Yes, PIR ("rigid") boards have better thermal parameters. But I was asking if the EPS70 would be appropriate in the flat roof joists for other reasons, as it is made for floors and walls. It is a cold flat roof, a one story side extension attached to the side of the house below the gables...

I have excess EPS70 Kay Metzeler 120mm insulation, could I use it in between joists in a flat roof instead of rigid?