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Hello, I need to choose a new tap for our soon to be fitted kitchen, and I have realised having a gravity fed system will limit my choice somewhat. Cold water tank is in the loft approx 5m above ground level, but tap outlet is about 1m off the ground, so am I right in thinking this will give...

Just in case anyone finds this thread in the future, I took a closer look at the synchron motor on top of the valve and realised it was exactly the same as the motors you can buy off the shelf. I picked up a new "drayton" one from screwfix for £20 and I now have a working valve! The motor is...

Thanks for the advice... Nothing is ever simple is it.

Ah right of course. Luckily mine is right at the front with lots of space around it so hopefully should be straight forward. Thanks again.

Actually thinking about it, if the whole thing is 35+ years old, instead of messing around with conversation kits, wouldn't it just make more sense to replace the whole thing. If the system needs to be drained down anyway, I might as well.. Right?

It's pre 1986!! Ah, I was afraid if that. I haven't got the confidence to unleash the wet stuff, so might need to get someone in... Thanks.

Phew I'm glad I know for sure now. But with this being an old design, will I be able buy a replacement motor that fits correctly? Also when you manually open the valve, it this meant to also operate the microswitch? Or is that only able to be operated when the motor rotates the mechanism...

I think I have a problem with my honeywell 2 port valve. It needs to open in order for hot water to enter the hot water tank. The valve itself seems to be OK, so I'm hoping I might be able to replace just the head with the motor and microswitch. However after viewing so YouTube videos it seems...

Storm Ciara shifted a few of our verge tiles and knocked out all the mortar underneath. Getting roofers in has confirmed that most of the mortar on both gable ends is cracked and falling out and really the whole lot nees replacing, so all verge tiles re-bedded. We have plans to do work on our...

Are you recommending an FCU for the shed lights simply because in your view it is easier / cheaper? Presumably even if it was more expensive / more complex, there would be nothing wrong with putting an MCB (of equivalent amps to the fuse in your FCU alternative) on the cable going to a standard...

OK many thanks . Ah yes, sorry - cable is SWA buried right up to shed.

OK thanks. So I'm overthinking it. So there is definitely no mileage in having the shed lights and shed sockets on two separate MCBs inside the shed? It's just lots of articles about wiring sheds seem to suggest this.

Sorry I didn't make myself clear. Although it sounds like I'm overthnking it. These are the RCDs, They are located on the wall next to the patio doors and I assume are connected to a spur in the ring main. They are in an open location next to a light switch hence my worry about people...

We bought a house with a shed with power. The original setup had two RCD breakers inside the house, and then cables going out to the shed. Then inside the shed there was a rats nest junction box with everything connected up with choc block. One RCD was connected to the shed power (which was to a...

The main thing I want from a new hose is for it to be easily wall mountable, and have a pivot so it turns in the direction I am pulling. The only hoses that seem to do this are the mega expensive auto reel ones. I like the idea of an auto reel in theory, but are they reliable? Seems like there...

Just taken delivery of a brand new shed. The wood is already treated, bur they recommend another coat within the first 3 months. I really like the light golden colour of the shed, so what kind of wood preserver should I use that doesn't also stain the wood? Most of the ones I see are quite...

Many thanks for all the advice, in the end I decided to fill most of the gap with flags, and then I concreted the little bit left over in the middle. Now there is a shed sat on it, all my lovely work is hidden anyway!

Considering I have no access to a mechanical mixer, would it be easier to just buy some slabs to fit in the hole? Or would mixing up the amount of concrete needed for this hole by hand, be achievable? I'm just a bit nervous as I've never used concrete before.

So... I've dug up the offending patch. It looked a bit like concrete that hadn't been smoothed down at all, but it broke apart very easily, and had a very sandy consistency. This is what I'm left with. Can I literally level the surrounding slabs and then pour concrete into the hole, using...

I don't think it's very solid, large chucks of what seemed to be mostly sand were coming away when I prodded it. Old shed was directly on patio.