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One solution is to use a timer fan with live supply (as normal) but use a separate "momentary" pull switch to trigger it (Instead of the light switch). The momentary pull switch only provides a live when being pulled but switches off when released. This triggers the timer fan which then runs...

Operator fault !!

Draw yourself a two way diagram for two switches and use the existing wires to achieve it. I.e start from scratch

We found the outside humidity (raining) set the fan going as the fan was on an outside wall so short duct. Increased the humidity setting but then it didn't come on quickly enough during shower. So we just use the timer mode.

If you are very patient you could cut the elbow off without touching the pipe inside and then sandpaper the pipe ready for a new elbow. There may be a way to un-weld the glue ?

These days you have to declare things when selling a house and provide a gas safe certificate : you could get a second opinion but looks like a new boiler to me. 18 years is pretty good for modern boilers as they are more complex.

Look around eBay etc - there are some "new" old stock gas valves around. Some people bought a spare and never needed it ! Check the part numbers and photos. PS Is that the manufacturer part number ? Should have a bit more detail manufacturer's name etc,

Looks like a complicated job to replace with new TRVs - the fittings on both sides look incompatible with current TRV connections.

I have an old central heating system, boiler and pump installed 1997, a cast iron Potterton Kingfisher still going strong ! I plan to change the two pumps next spring - Grundfos Ups 15 50 Does CH and a DAB which just does the HW. Since then, CH pumps have gone "Smart" . The question is should...

Blast all the flow through this radiator by turning all the others off - just in case there is some sort of blockage or air lock. Then bleed again.

Can you have a motorised bypass that only opens on the overrun ?

If a stopcock is not turning off fully, an old plumbers trick is to let the water drip somewhere else where it doesn't matter. Another tap which is lower than where you are working or loosen a joint upstream where you can get a bowel under it.

Maybe the stopcock is not fully on - water may cause a hissing sound as it forces it's way past a narrower opening.

Also check which end of the radiators get hot first - is it the same as when the CH is on or the opposite end. If opposite then it's prob reverse flow.

I vote for the screws and rail along the grout line then the shower head will be central. In any case you can angle the shower head so it doesn't play directly on the screen.

Yes - you need to cut a hole in the grid so the pipe goes a little below the grid. That will stop what looks like splashing on the wall.

The inserts in the plastic pipe are only about a cm, presumably the rest of the plastic pipe is about the same ID as the copper so the resistance to flow is not that bad. I'd turn off the radiators in the upstream bedrooms as a start and slowly open them a little at a time until you get all...

I tried the spark generator with surprising results. Without any wires connected the spark leapt across the terminals on the device itself indicating one is negative and the other two positive. With one electrode connected - no spark at the electrode ! But a spark leapt between the other two...

I guess the spark generator has metal just below the plastic or the plastic itself conducts at HT voltages to complete the return path. The term earth is used where the return path for a circuit uses the body of the car or BBQ panels. It gets confused with proper earth grounding used in other...

Just bought one of these battery electric spark BBQ igniter. It has 3 outlets for connection to electrodes. I intend to replace the pizzo igniter which is a bit weak. My question is where is the return path for the high voltage spark to work ? The unit seems to be all plastic, even where it...