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Why is a plunge saw better than buying a new blade for my table saw?

I need to cut kitchen end panels, they are painted MDF; at least two of them will need to be super accurate and without chipping because there will be no caulking: one of them is going between two wall units and the other one is a filler panel above the microwave door (the cut edge will be...

definitely a straight thread on both the tail and the radiator

It is this trv+lockshield https://www.toolstation.com/corgi-angled-trv-lockshield/p3820 And a radiator from traderadiators to be honest though, even my other radiators are from there and I’ve used other kinds of radiator valves and I’ve always needed 20-25 turns

With 10 turns, I would probably be able to tighten by hand

I have just fitted a radiator in my house (not the first time) and when it comes to installing the tails I never know how to make sure there is the right amount of PTFE; the tails I use are not conical and when screwed in all the way (without ptfe) they are still a bit loose It’s the kind that...

yes, I was holding it the right way; I just tried with another piece of cable and it seems fine now Maybe I didn’t strip the wire long enough

it wasn’t, it only showed the one with single solid core entry, although it did state they are suitable for 1mm cables

I’ve been trying to wire two 1mm solid core wires to a Wago 224-112, but when I push in the second wire, it doesn’t stay in, it just comes out with little force I had the impression that the spring is shared between the two wires...

How do you make such nice drawings?

Outside depth 300mm (without doors) Back panel 8mm Service void 17mm Internal depth 275mm Central post thickness ~20mm

Ok, I don’t mind having the extractor visible when I open the doors; to be honest, there will be so little space left inside the cabinet that will rarely be opened By the way the inside depth is 275mm and there is a central post

Thanks for taking the time to write this; I’m sure I need to re read it multiple times, but why do I need to cut holes for the hinges at the back of the unit?

If I need to replace it and it's been fitted too close to the wall (which has then a thick backsplash fitted underneath) it might be impossible to remove

Also worried that when the wall is tiled (or covered with 20mm quartz) I won’t be able to remove the extractor for maintenance

I haven’t plastered the wall so this will be visible when the doors are opened, so I need a solution for that, maybe not cutting the back panel entirely

I’m fitting this extractor hood https://luxairhoods.com/image/catalog/PDF/Cooker Hoods/Built-In/Telescopic Plus/LA-TEL-SS-Plus Installation Guide.pdf From what I can understand from the installation guide, it needs support from the side (drilling holes on the side of the cabinet) and from the...

It's almost the same as this one (mine just has metal supports instead of plastic ones) https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb794msw-210mm-electric-single-bevel-sliding-sliding-mitre-saw-240v/881kp

there is nothing, I was hoping to find someone with the same that could have a look at theirs