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Fantastic! Got my phone on macro setting now.

You're being fleeced. There's something called "extras" in the trade - any deviation from the agreed work is charged at 10 times the rate. Just treat as a separate job and get quotes. A lot of people just convert to insulated solid floors these days.

I can't quite work out whether that's a joke or not!!

Thanks. It does look extremely similar to scolmore but there's no branding on it - I wonder if it's a copy/made under license type thing. Only part number is sw31022.3 Looks like they sell a double width switch that certainly looks like a swap.

Trying to use what I've got. With hindsight I should have got two switches and one of these-

Thanks. Hopefully the picture of the switch in question will supplement my poor terminology. No additional lights needed. I want the second left switch to operate the same light as the first left so it doesn't matter which you press - just because it'll annoy me if it does nothing. I suppose...

I've got a 4 gang switch but only 3 circuits (I couldn't find a double 3 gang that came close to matching all the others. Is it possible to link 2 switches so that at least all 4 switches do something? I suspect not? Al circuits are 2 way switched if it matters. Otherwise - leave one doing...

Drunk students asleep in our treehouse.

I found the hearth regs a bit confusing. I would trim and support the joists off some blockwork, shutter it up and cast a 100mm (ish - depending on decorative hearth thickness) constructional concrete hearth finishing at your chosen height. According to my MI's it's 125mm constructional...

For what it's worth, having had one of those boilers, is that once the plastic starts leaking it's on its way out - mine started with the flow turbine, then the left block, then the right block then another two bits that I can't remember until finally after yet another leak my guy struggled to...

You (or a competent builder) should be able to identify what has moved in relation to what with a long spirit level - across the window above the crack and below the window to the left and right (as there are slight signs that the cracking continues diagonally below the window). Don't worry if...

Personally, I'd foam on some 100mm PIR bonded plasterboard. It will do the lot, including closing off the cavity.

If the house is otherwise reasonable condition and that is obviously letting it down I'd repair it. You can usually determine areas where it's failed by knocking on it (like a door). It will sound solid or hollow. If you can manage this and it's not a large area it will be patchable either by...

Unless you're a dab hand at brickwork? I'd focus on preserving the outside - there's usually a way to bodge something workable from inside.

I think the ones I've chopped, the ribs were 8mm so planing 10mm will remove the first part of the box section, and you'll need some expansion room or it'll buckle. On my prefab garage I did as suggested by robin and ground out the back section on some, but also recall that some of the panels...

Sounds like you're drowning generally, a few fan heaters, warm clothes and your electric shower will tide you over the remainder of the winter while you address your finances. Try MSE.com - loads of genuine help if you're honest and open about your situation.

I can spin mine off by hand but I've greased the spindle. My dads we ratchet strapped a block of wood on the drum and hit it round with a hammer the first time.

Use the dritherm high performance stuff, water doesn't get across it and can go below dpc.

Whatever happens, I've got one in full working order if you get stuck.

I built a staircase for my loft conversion - it wasn't particularly difficult to build it (cheap DIY router and a jigsaw) but measuring could be tricky (wasn't that bad for me as being a new staircase I was able literally put one of the strings in position and mark where everything needed to go)...