Search results

Where is the damp coming from? The door damage is probably as a result of drying clothes in there. You need to increase ventilation with some soffit vents, or roof vents - the gap under the door isn't sufficient on it's own. If it's a new build, and has a dpm under the floor, I'm not sure...

Personally, I'd skim it and save on the hassle of filling, sanding, and papering. It's a much more durable and easy to maintain finish.

Ok, I assume the new flooring will butt against your concrete. You're laying the floor before sorting out the hearth? Its the issue of having a combustible material underneath what will be considered a solid, fireproof lump of concrete. Just not very clever. But if you do it anyway, I...

Not quite sure if you're right with your measurements - I can't quite understand where your 35mm fits in. I don't see any great problem with what you propose, but it wouldn't be considered good practice. If you need to get a board up, for example, you might crack your concrete. You'd be...

You could check any valves in the water pipes for any looseness/ I once had a permanent rattling/tinkling whenever the pump was running. It turned out to be the valve just above it, which wasn't quite fully open, and seemed to vibrate when the pump was on. It was only a tiny adjustment, but the...

I can't quite tell, but it looks like the dried up shells of woodlice and other little things that those long legged spiders leave after sucking them dry. Would you rather have lots of little things or just one or two predatory spiders?

Well you can get definitive information about joist sizes and loadings from the building regs, but it's quite a lot to wade through. If they don't sag that's good. Is the ceiling lath or plasterboard? I can't quite picture your situation - do the joists run parallel to the rafters? Do the...

I suspect your joists are not up to taking any additional support. I bet they already sag. What you might do is fit a few good sized joists in between your existing ones, packed up to not touch the ceiling. You could then counter batten these, though your battens would be quite hefty depending...

It looks like it would be ok to remove it, but don't take my word for it. It could still be helping to support the weight of the upstairs wall.

I guess your sliding doors are resting on the bottom, rather than hanging from the top. Or is it bowing because of humidity? Is the mdf sealed? You could use thinner MDF and support it from the top. Are you using proper sliding door gear? As you know, doors are generally constructed to be...

If there is a wall directly above the one you want to remove, you might find you require a supporting (steel) beam in it's place. Do you know if the upstairs wall is helping support the roof at all? Your description is quite hard to follow. A quick sketch/photo would help and might get you a...

Use an old saw to scrape off the high spots while it's still green. Or the edge of a plastering trowel.

Sounds like what I had with my Alhambra. It was a problem with the head gasket, which was allowing exhaust gases into the water when under pressure and forcing all the water out. I ended up getting a second hand engine put in. Expensive.

Gripfill/No more nails would be good for that. A bit of gaffer tape holds it till its dry.

I know this seems harsh.... but you are a fool and a menace. May you wise up before your luck runs out.

The 10mm refers to the diameter of the head, which is generally about twice the diameter of the shank.

I bought an old Skoda Felicia which runs really well. But last week while driving through town, I noticed the steering wheel pulling to the left every revolution of the wheel. I thought I must have a flat tyre or something similarly obvious, but nothing to note. The problem went away. It came...

With a good timber door and well fitted lock like that, the biggest risk is that someone will think they can break the glass and unlock it. When they find it's deadlocked, do you think it's likely they will start trying to kick the door in? If so you need another lock low down. You need to be...

Erm, you could just try it with the door open....

I think mine is similar. I thought the idea was that you could lock it from the inside, then go out and shut the door behind you, and it wouldn't be openable if someone breaks the window. Also if you feel vulnerable in your own home, you would deadlock it when you're inside.