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Started a right row with that one, didn't I? After reading wiggikins' brief response, I fitted it without a sleeve. Now I'm nervous about water down the cavity. Short of subsidence shifting the wall it's got to be very unlikely, hasn't it? :cry: If I forget to drain it one winter and it...

The pipe does appear to be galvanised - it's not rusting anyway. I didn't realise you couldn't weld it. Why not? Can't you just grind off the plating? That's going to be a real pain, as the only other option is to get a threaded section to fit the existing joint, and who knows what thread pitch...

Do you mean a 3" flange will fit my pipe? That's what I was hoping. Weld on a flange and fit a 3" valve. I had to google to find out what a nipple was :shock: Can you get steel nipples? That would work.

Useful looking site, thanks. I'll give them a go. I'm not sure if the size is odd, the pipe is 90mm OD and about 80mm bore. I'll probably end up with a 3" bore and an adaptor of some kind. I'm hoping I can get something that ends in steel, then we can just weld it onto the existing pipe, and...

Flow rate is still pretty significant. That 10 to 15 cubic metre tank gets emptied every day, you need a decent flow rate just to match the rate it's being used. Also, it's not just flow rate: 1. Putting small valves on will greatly increase the pressure in the pipework and load on the pump -...

Sorry, I should have supplied a bit more information. The water tower is 200m away from the garden tank. A bit too far to run the overflow pipe! I had a look for 90mm float valves, I couldn't find any. I didn't design the system, it's a relic from the previous owners. The property used to...

We have a manual system in place at the moment, and it does work, but it's not exactly ideal. It works like this. A borehole pump fills a watertower for the house, and a ground level tank for the garden. When the water stops in the house, someone goes out and finds one of the workers who...

I've bought an outside tap kit from HPS, in 15mm copper. I've heard a few people say to sleeve the pipe where it goes throgh the brick wall, either in 22mm copper or plastic tube. Other people don't mention it. Is it necessary? Is it worth filling round the pipe where it comes through the wall...

Everyvalve look like the sort of site I was looking for, it looks like they might have odd surplus stuff. I'll give them a call and see if they can help. Thanks for the tip. I did think about using lots of small valves, but it seemed like a lot of work making the manifold.

Good point. It's feeding a tank that is used for watering the garden, but it's fed from the pipe that fills the house water tank. So yes, it needs to remain potable. It's looking like a secondhand valve is going to be more trouble than it's worth, since I'll have to know what it's been used for.

It's not going to be practical to thread the pipe on site, so I'll need a flanged valve with a flange that we can weld on. Or, I could get a threaded valve and a short length of pipe with a threaded end that we could weld onto the existing pipe. Ideal voltage is 220V 50Hz, but I'm building the...

The question is.... Does anyone know where I can get hold of a great big motorised valve? Needs to be cheap, so a secondhand one would be good. I've no idea where to look, and I was wondering if anyone here could help. I guess that's a no then.

Anyone know where I'd get one cheap? It doesn't have to be great - it can leak externally and not close fully, but it needs to last a few years with no maintenance.

From my O level Physics.... Specific heat capacity of water is 4200 J/KgC. A litre weighs a Kg, so 100l will take 420,000J to heat it up by 1 degree C. A Watt is a Joule per second, and there are 3600 seconds in an hour, so a kWh is Joules / 1000 / 3600. So that's 0.117kWh required to heat...

I'm glad to hear it's not just me.... A long time ago now I was trimming a piece of plastic with a Stanley knife, towards me. The knife went through the piece and up the inside of my wrist, opening it up like it had been unzipped. At the hospital they thought it was fascinating - they got all...

That's assuming the machine outlives the blade :roll:

Well I got the £30 one from B&Q. There was even one for £25, but I paid the extra fiver for one with a laser on it. Not had a chance to try it on the real job jet, but after I'd tweaked it a bit it seems pretty good on the test bits. I was tempted to do a chirpychippy and take it back after I'd...

That's a thought. I seem to recall that B&Q will take tools back for a full refund without any agro. I think I'll go buy the £30 one and give it a go, if it's no good I'll sling it back.

I've tried cutting the mitres in my kitchen trim using a plastic mitre box from B&Q and it's hopeless, I need a proper tool. My local shop has a Draper hand mitre saw for £22, or there's electric ones at Screwfix, B&Q and Wickes for about £50. Which will give me a better result with minimum...