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Yes IMO MK are a good make.

When you return, let us know 1) The power ratings of the pump and filter, in Kw and amps plus any other info off their plates. 2) the size of the protective device, fuse or MCB currently supplying the lights. 3) The size of the armoured cable supplying the lights. It should be embossed on the...

I've just received a new hub from my internet provider. I've fitted it in place of my old one and have my TV, mobile phones, tablet and laptop connected by WiFi. However, I've been trying to connect my extender for using outside. It is visible on my laptop with the old hub number, it's a TP...

You wouldn't be able to tap into your "ring main" for those two appliances as you are limited to 13 amps, either via a plug or spur. So assuming the 20kW diversity stated above, you would be able to use the same supply as the one feeding the hob. The difficult part I would expect would be to fit...

If you are taking a spur off the ring main, you would need to go through a 13amp spur unit, so your load would have to be limited to 13amp. 2.5mm will do for that unless the distance is great enough to bring volt drop into it. It's quite possible that 3 of the 4 could be consuming current. On a...

The socket for the washer could go beneath the draining board, I can't see a problem. Personally I hate it when sockets and waste pipes are left directly behind appliances. I always go the the side, which usually involves cutting a couple of holes in the sides and backs of the units.

Where you have "some sort of distribution", I would have that as a 3 phase distribution board. A 3 phase breaker for the heat pump/battery storage/large equipment, and three single pole MCBs for the three houses. Arrange for the metering to be installed where required. You have taken balancing...

I did a similar thing to a planter last year. The issue that I had was that there was only a 3 core SWA going under a block paved driveway to that area. Ignoring the earth wire, I needed a 2 core for the mains feed for the power supply, a 2 core from there to the colour change unit (driver) and...

I've got a project coming up to rewire my daughters pre-cast concrete garage when the weather warms up. The sockets will be located inside, on the joints so I want to avoid drilling the concrete, intending to glue 12mm thick wooden battens about 30mm wide down to another piece the size of a...

The way it is wired looks correct to me. You need a multimeter to fault find.

For the sake of completeness, I wanted to update on the progress. I've managed to sort the issue. Before calibration, I had to disable the bounce back feature. This is done by taking the window to the top where it bounces back and within 2 seconds, take it back to the top. I was then able to...

Normal lighting circuits need a connection to join the neutrals together, it is usually in the ceiling rose, but often this is done close to the switch using a connector block. This appears to be a switch that has an integrated connector block. It doesn't do anything but connect the neutrals...

Probably a loose connection, just isolate and retighten for now. If it doesn't make a difference. it could be that the contacts are getting worn or that the switch simply isn't up to the job and will get worse over time, so best to replace with a good make of the correct rating.

Assuming you have the equipment, connect your LED to a 5v supply so it illuminates. Set your multimeter to read mA then connect it in series to measure the current that it is designed to operate at. Then divide the voltage that you need to drop by the current which will give you the required...

The drivers window of my 2019 Focus has gone out of calibration. The limits seem to be approx 100mm too high, so that coming down it stops above where it used to. Going up, it hits the top and bounces back as it would do if something was trapped there. I've cleaned and lubricated the grooves in...

This type of connector is very common in industry. Just push a flat blade terminal screwdriver in the square hole below the wire you want to remove. It should release a spring that is putting constant pressure on the wire and you should be able to pull it out. You might have to lever the...

EFL's photo above is spot on, just follow that. Just to explain the supply cable, the grey is the neutral, the brown is a permanent live (possibly via an isolator that is left on), the black is only live when the bathroom light is turned on. This then starts the fan and continues to run for a...

I have a buyer for my late Mum's house and her survey came back with "the protective underfelt in the loft space is damaged/ripped and needs to be repaired before completion". I have been up there today to investigate and seen that there are places where the felt edges have sagged, exposing the...

Tigercubrider that's what I'm thinking of doing. Just wanted to know if this is a common issue. Thinking of supporting it as described and breaking the tiles immediately under each decor board just to make it easier for the screeder.

I've already taken the plinth boards off and there are no feet, and the weight of the worktop is purely on the decor panels. There are some wall hanging brackets and the cabinets themselves are fixed to the wall with brackets. The floor tile fitter may well be able to fit up the the decor panels...