Ford Focus electric window calibration.

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The drivers window of my 2019 Focus has gone out of calibration. The limits seem to be approx 100mm too high, so that coming down it stops above where it used to. Going up, it hits the top and bounces back as it would do if something was trapped there.
I've cleaned and lubricated the grooves in which it slides and I have not removed the battery, it just happened overnight.
There's a calibration procedure in the manual involving holding the up/down button when at the top and bottom to tell the system where the window is, but I cannot do this as the window bounces back from the top when I try to set the top limit. My only other idea is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes to perhaps clear any glitch but would probably have to recalibrate all 4 windows after.
Has anyone else come across this problem?
 
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Are you performing the calibration procedure correctly?

Put the window down and hold for a few seconds
Put the window up and hold for a few seconds

I believe you repeat this twice, if its still not right id try disconnecting the battery as suggested.
Sorry if thats teaching you to suck eggs!
 
Why on earth do windows need calibrating?
I believe, and I'm happy to be corrected, that electric windows may not have limit switches.
Instead, they stop when there is an increase in current draw from the motor.
This is where the calibration is important, as the window mechanism will be used on windows of different sizes, and the current detection is also used to detect and rebound from obstructions.
Without the correct calibration, the window could determine that being fully closed, was really an obstruction, and hence, it would 'bounce', instead of staying closed.
 
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Why on earth do windows need calibrating?
For safety. Once, I had fitted a new clutch in my 1991 Cavalier SRI and I had disconnected the battery. I was giving a mate a lift home in it and I was telling him about the safety feature of the windows - they would go down if there was any resistance felt such as a hand being trapped. I demonstrated it while I was driving and neatly had 4 fingers broken because I hadn’t calibrated them when reconnecting the battery. I had a right faff stopping the car to use my untrapped hand to open the window.

Also, the one-shot auto close/open won’t work on many cars until calibrated.
 
I promise I am not just being awkward.

For safety. Once, I had fitted a new clutch in my 1991 Cavalier SRI and I had disconnected the battery. I was giving a mate a lift home in it and I was telling him about the safety feature of the windows - they would go down if there was any resistance felt such as a hand being trapped. I demonstrated it while I was driving and neatly had 4 fingers broken because I hadn’t calibrated them when reconnecting the battery. I had a right faff stopping the car to use my untrapped hand to open the window.
Right.

Is that not less safe than the window only rising when the button is pressed?

That is; is it worth the one-shot-close if safety features then have to be devised?

Which brings me back to my original question.

Also, the one-shot auto close/open won’t work on many cars until calibrated.
Does that mean on some it does?
 
Does that mean on some it does?
Well, the one-shot worked on my 1991 Cavalier without calibration - that’s how I trapped my fingers but I can’t recall any other cars in the last 20 odd years that did not need calibrating after a battery disconnection.
 
For the sake of completeness, I wanted to update on the progress. I've managed to sort the issue. Before calibration, I had to disable the bounce back feature. This is done by taking the window to the top where it bounces back and within 2 seconds, take it back to the top.
I was then able to calibrate it in the usual way. Within 30 seconds, take the window fully down and hold the switch for 2 seconds, take it completely up and hold for 2 seconds (it didn't bounce back this time). Repeat.
 
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