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I have just had a new inspection chamber installed along with a new soil pipe ran to the house, which involved digging a trench about 600mm deep. The new plastic soil pipe was bedded in gravel and then backfilled with the excavated sub-soil (clay/stone), I now need to dig some footings for a...

Couple of others things to consider...fence panels rattle about like anything in concrete posts although I'm sure you can get something to hold them still, and from a security point of view would probably want to do something to avoid panels being lifted out easily. If I lived in a new build I...

Getting completely equal joints with that type of paving is almost impossible, but it should be possible to do a better job than that of balancing the joints so that it is barely noticeable. However, I don't think you've got grounds to go back to your contractor on joint sizes given it's been 6...

I had slotted timber posts installed last year (went with Jacksons), really happy with it, looks much neater than the standard panel fencing I had before and definitely significantly stronger - although that may have more for going with heavy duty Jacksons fencing than the usual cheap stuff (I...

Not sure how that relates to whether or not I should take the tarmac up before laying a patio... Ground level is taken from the highest point, and patio is only 100mm higher at this point. So no planning permission

Increase in level will be between 100mm and 400mm depending on the slop

I want to install a raised patio to replace the existing tarmac surface in my garden. This is probably going to be a DIY project as I can't even get anyone to come round and quote. The existing tarmac surface is not level, so I plan to install the patio so that it lines up with the highest...

I am in the process of renovating my bathroom and looking for some advice on tiling the walls (I'm tiling floor to ceiling). I have used Fermacell tile backer boards on a new timber stud wall - the place I ordered them from had ran out of Hardiebacker, and I was offered this as an alternative...

Maybe a photo will help: I want to bring the floor on the right level with the floor on the left - and at the same time apply liquid DPM so I have a continuous damp-proof floor. I have about 2-3cm to make up to get level. This would also involve filling over the old wall footings...

I am in the process of renovating my kitchen and my next task is to sort the flooring out. I have just had the wall knocked through between the kitchen and utility room to create one larger kitchen, so I now have two separate concrete floors to join up. The concrete floor in the kitchen was...

In my 1930's extension, the solid wall has an existing DPC but the concrete floor has no DPM. The concrete floor is below the DPC level so currently gets damp. I intend to follow the liquid DPM/self-levelling 'stickys' on the Flooring thread, but wondering what to do with the section of wall...

I've never seen an understair trap door either in any of the old houses I have lived in. Must be an American thing

You're welcome blowsall :)

less than useless -----> useless -----> useful -----> more than useful So no, less than useless doesn't mean useful

Don't think cutting it would really be feasible - as the duct as a whole meets the water regs for preventing freezing, I would have thought any modification to the duct could invalidate it. Went ahead with a combination of the first two options - built it out with some cement to give a flat...