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  1. U

    Screws or Bolts

    I am having steel stringers made like the bottom half of this pic and using 35mm thick planks of wood as treads. The metal works who are used to steel treads say I should bolt the planks to the steel plates which would mean 8 bolt heads showing through the planks on the surface or recessed...
  2. U

    Ladders

    There are just two steel stringers with a 380mm gap in between. Its in the hallway so I can take it from the front door and raise it as the ceiling is raised above the stringers so I have the space from the floor to the top of the house to raise it. 323mm is ideal for the job. Never seen one...
  3. U

    Ladders

    I am replacing a staircase with steel supports and wood treads For a few days I will be without stairs and need a ladder to climb between the supports to get to the first floor. The gap will be less than 400mm so I need the narrowest of ladders. It has to be at least 4m high. Any ideas ?
  4. U

    Screwing wood plank to steel support

    So are you saying I could use stainless steel screws it would work ? Others say the screws would work loose but surely that applies to all screws and I dont have shelves, doors etc falling down every week thro normal use. The stair are in a private house and mainly only in use morning and...
  5. U

    Screwing wood plank to steel support

    The front of the treads only vary by a few mil but even that stops me measuring accurately for drilling a hole from the top As I said I could mark the drill point from the bottom and use a drill pillar or press to make sure the hole is straight for fitting the bolt from the top Or I could use...
  6. U

    Screwing wood plank to steel support

    I am making a stair case with wood planks supported on two steel stringers There are two holes already drilled in the steel support. I need to be able to line up the plank and know where to drill the holes for the bolts to exactly meet the holes in the steel support. The problem is two sides...
  7. U

    10mm too much

    All treads will be at 10 inches and if the boards are wider at one end I will chisel a channel equal to the support and move it back until it is at a level 10" from the front to the support. The bark will be removed at the front but the rough darker edge will stay. I just will not plane them as...
  8. U

    10mm too much

    The old stairs are dangerous with 1/2" treads that bow dangerously in the centre when walked on. The only centre support is screwed into the top tread and bottom one ! The replacements will be 1 1/4" thick with two steel stringers at 3" from the ends of the tread. The bark is about 1/4 of an...
  9. U

    What Is It ?

    Thanks for all the information JobandKnock. That is a bit of old timber I picked up in a wood yard literally. A tree surgeon used to sell all sorts of wood there, as they stood, so you got some free and some bargains. I will not be using it or anything like it now . I have now decided the...
  10. U

    10mm too much

    I am impressed. More so by Foxhole who has convinced me to use them as they are bark, thickness and all. The staircase will be a selection of British timber
  11. U

    10mm too much

    I have one oak and one elm plank which I want to use for stair treads One is 35mm the other 30mm. thick. For the treads I need 25mm. They are about 240mm wide and 740 long. Could they practically be planed or sawn down ? Maybe a timber yard could do it ? Not being a professional carpenter I...
  12. U

    Welding

    Got 16 mm cut off the bottoms and they rewelded from underneath with no weld sign and no discolouration and no cost (buying the stairs from them), I can also fit more bars as they will drill the holes but probably charge next time. For Durhamplumber. Here's a few "hidious " galvinised steel...
  13. U

    Welding

    Never heard of "industrial chic" ? It can look quite good with cleaned up brick walls and lots of steel and wood
  14. U

    What Is It ?

    Can anyone identify this wood for me ? I am looking to use it on a staircase as treads if possible.
  15. U

    Steel Stairs Concrete Block Base

    Leofric. A minimal steel frame will show off the wood on the stairs far better then the usual wood frame which encloses the treadsin a box you will hardly see them and lames the hallway "small". . I have a small narrow hallway so I want the minimum of support and the maximum of wood . This (...
  16. U

    Steel Stairs Concrete Block Base

    Yes, you are right cdbe. I have now told the contractor for installing the stringers that it is his responsibility to install the concrete bases even if he subs for the work, as long as it to a bonafide company that is covered for insurance. If I install them I am not covered and if anything...
  17. U

    Steel Stairs Concrete Block Base

    Thanks for the info but surely it is the main contractor's responsibility to build the foundations the stringers are resting on or arrange for them to be done in the way he approves. That way I am covered if anything goes wrong. I have no experience of shuttering or concreting so have no real...
  18. U

    Steel Stairs Concrete Block Base

    I am getting some steel stair frames installed at ground level- two stringers. I will provide the treads. The company tells me I have to proved a concrete base 400 x 400 X 200 on the ground under the floorboards at the base of each stringer . This would be about 1 metre below floor level. Apart...
  19. U

    Steel stringer and wood treads

    I have been offered a steel single stringer stair with 12 steps to which I would screw wooden treads. The plate for the tread is 12 " (30.cm) long by 8"(20cm) with holes for 4 screws. The treads would be 30"(76cm) long by 8" 20 +cm wide but between 3/4" (1.90) and 1" (2.54) thick. A...
  20. U

    Welding

    110mm is the maximum height and looks OK on an outside balconey but far too high for landing or stairs in a small terrace house. where the average is about 90mm But as you say better to wait till I get it then measure it up by eye and see if it needs cutting . The main problem was replacing...
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