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The dT of 20c is only for a flow temp of 70c. The lower the flow temp, the lower the dT. My condensing boiler generally runs at a dT of 10c to 15c with a flow temp of approx. 60c.

Be careful not to overtighten, it is easy to go to far and make the leak worse.

I wouldnt get to hung up on getting the delta t to 20c, not many modulating boilers manage that at 60c flow. Just get the return temp as low as possible.

The orange wires should all be connected together so that any zone valve can call for heat and turn on the boiler and pump.

I think its best to keep it simple. My suggestion is simple and free, just connect the additional pumps LNE to into the wiring centre and connect the pump live to the terminal in the wiring centre where the orange switched lives terminate from the motorised valves. So when the room thermostats...

If you have a 2port motorised zone valve for the CH you could feed the pump from the switched live of the valve.

If the Nest heat link is connected to the boiler then I can see that it might work but Nest can’t communicate with Wiser. Wiser is a pretty good system, it has a few foibles. I don’t use the Wiser TRV’s anymore as I have gone to a more open heating system.

Only Drayton Wiser TRV’s can communicate with the Wiser hub to fire the boiler as it is a closed system.

The TV Ethernet connection is probably only 100mb whereas WiFi can go much faster on a 5g WiFi connection. You are also limited to whatever your broadband speed is.

My condensate pipe is installed the way you want and I have had no issues.

The boiler doesn't know if it is firing for CH or DHW because with an s plan the request for heat is on the same terminal within the boiler. The thermostat on the HWC is just to tell the DHW 2 port valve to close when its set temperature is reached, if the set temperature on the thermostat is...

Drayton Wiser will also be a direct replacement.

80 litres over 5 days with daily 10 minute showers is only 1.6 litres a minute, maybe its more than just a drip.

I run Home Assistant OS on a £60 micro pc purchased from an ebay seller. Its permanently running and is very low power.

How about a small 2 storey extension to the side of the kitchen and upstairs bathroom. You can then have a larger kitchen and an upstairs shower room. You would need to make a corridor from the landing along the side of bedroom 2 to gain access. The cost of the extension would likely be less...

The problem with not heating rooms whilst heating others is that the radiators that are heating will have to work harder due to the unheated rooms absorbing heat. Unless the unheated room is isolated from the rest of the house meaning doors closed and insulated plus walls and floor insulated...

What is the minimum your boiler will modulate down too? Mine is a little over 7.2kW which means I have to have most radiators on to prevent short cycling of the boiler.

I have a Drayton Wiser setup with daytime set to 20c and overnight set to 17c. The house very rarely drops to below 17c overnight but I was finding that certain radiators with smart TRV's were registering lower temperatures overnight and calling for heat unnecessarily (the hall and kitchen). I...

I think smart TRV’s can work in certain situations but are not a solution for everyone. They certainly haven’t worked for me and since removing most of them and going back to manual TRV’s on most radiators my gas usage has decreased and my comfort has increased.

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