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Good shout. It's that shape, but registered in '06

And I would have no trouble towing the bike with one of them ;)

Thanks guys. Too good to be true then. The car battery is 85Ah, but the warmers have to be on for around 40mins each hour. They do self regulate, but when both on will draw a constant 8.2A @ mains voltage. Re the race organiser, I've been looking at the No Limits Newcomers as I'm just running...

Just to give you an idea what it's for, you can see the generator in the background on the right, but it's chuffing heavy because of the engine and fuel, plus it takes up half the boot of my car.

In an attempt to ditch lugging around my 3Kw petrol generator to power the tyre warmers for my race bike I stumbled across this -...

I don't disagree, but is there a problem with me asking the question?

Which is why I asked for confirmation first as it's better to check in advance rather than blindly crack on without the relevant info. Helpful comment though...

Thanks for pointing that out. I did wonder how I was going to RCD protect any alterations, hence my OP (needed clarity from the experts). I could use a double in place of the cooker switch and a single RCD FCU to move one of the other sockets which is on a different circuit.

Bear with me as I'm still doing my Level 2 at the moment and I'm getting my ears bent by the wife to help.

The wife wants me to add some sockets where she works, but one of them involves removing a cooker outlet and swapping over the switched socket to standard 2 gang socket outlet. The problem is that it's on an old Wylex fuse wire board and although I could swap the red 30A fuse to a blue 15A and...

Almost had to Google that one :D

This ˆˆˆˆˆˆ YouTube may show you how to replace the socket, but you'd need to watch a video on safe isolation first.

Fingers crossed it will be ok, otherwise I could always start over. In the mean time the boiler pressure is holding steady at 1.0 Bar and the rads are bled. Also, if I ping the expansion tank I get a nice ringing sound, so it's definitely empty :)

Thanks guys. So far I've pumped out a few buckets worth of water until no more came out when pumping air in the expansion tank. Then I tightened the valve back up and pumped the expansion tank up to 0.8 Bar and filled the system with water via the loop valve until the pressure on the boiler read...

The boilers last service was by the seller when we moved in almost 2 years ago. Yes I'm bad. Getting hold of a plumber round here is near on impossible. I had 3 no shows when I wanted a gas fire hooking up and ended up settling on a 6 week waiting list. Can I drain it down from a radiator...

Thanks, I'll try this tomorrow. I'm not this boilers biggest fan either and will likely have it replaced at some point, but I can't help think that water in the tank is self inflicted by me neglecting to pump it up...ever :o

The hot pressure has dropped back to normal @ 0.75Bar, but the expansion tank is still full of water. I had thought that this is with me filling the system via the loop and not pumping air in the tank? Can I not just find a way to empty the tank of water and pump air back in?

I've been re routing pipework in my bathroom to fit a towel radiator, but my boiler pressure has gone through the roof. I noticed that my expansion tank is full of water as it spurts out when I press the Schrader valve in. My question is how do I empty the expansion tank of water so I can pump...

I cut the top pipe along the join line and set it loosely in place to line it all back up. I've seen a few push fit sections and will look at moving it across to the left. In the mean time I'll have a look at space for a manifold. Good point about the loft vent, it is indeed an AAV.

Push fit to the rescue. Seems the soil pipe is 110mm and I found a coupler with a male push fit end, so I've loosely fitted these on top of the branch that I intend to remove so my poo pipe can come in from the left side. I'll know more about the practicality once I've cut the old branch off...