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I did try to access and lubricate but with limited success... it seemed to stop doing it over time however that may simply be the cooler weather, we'll see if it comes back in the summer! So, not much help I'm afraid :(

They're covered in bitumen shingles which isn't ideal, but I didn't say it was an issue to cut them - I just want to know if I will need to or not. If I can dump them in a nice stack this will save far more than 5s a piece when I'm working alone

That doesn't give the internal dimensions... the width and height are nearly all usable space (knock off maybe 20cm) but 3.65m is far longer than the flat bottom part. Any idea, it must be close to 2.4m and I wouldn't be surprised if skips were built around 8x4'? But worst case, I can clearly...

I don't know the dimensions of a skip but presumabing you can fit a full board flat inside(?) then even if they're 40mm with the shingles that's a stack 1.2m high which is fine. If a sheet won't sit flat it's more work but if every sheet was cut in half and stacked like a box of after-8 mints...

We're preparing to rip off ~80m2 of shingled ply roofing which I believe to be 30 full sheets worth originally. Is that going to fit in a single 8m3 skip? Plan is to get it off in the original sheets as far as possible.

Problem solved... saw this on a local FB group:

Yeah I am wondering about 1 Vs 2 pieces. It's looking like bang on 100kg of rubber. I can buy that pre-joined but it is getting heavy even for 2 - roofers reckoned they could get a single piece but then they are used to this. Each side of the roof is 11.5x3.5m and the rear of the roof is hidden...

Our cabin building has a pitch of about 15 degrees and we plan to replace the top deck with EPDB after the shingles failed. Looking at ClassicBond most likely. I know this can be used but had a couple of detailing questions I cannot see answered online: 1. Gutter drip edging fits at 90 degrees...

Except it can't get close to any wall of my house it's perfect. Shame as they look great fun... Didn't realise you could self hire without reams of qualifications.

Btw I found a pretty thorough discussion on this sort of thing in an older thread, if anyone else is following this: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/scaffold-towers-just-how-useful-flexible-are-they.514680/

Although possibly this is getting close assuming you can tweak it slightly to reposition braces and build it on top/around an outbuilding: https://www.scaffold-tower.co.uk/product/industrial-scaffold-tower/ This is the problem case, though I also have two large bay windows at the front which...

Other issues with a tower is that it cannot provide access to some areas sure to outbuildings jutting out... A 2m long tower simply won't fit whereas a scaffold run can easily be fit around it. I can't really access these areas by ladder for the same reason, my perfect solution would be a...

Yeah for sure, the weight is a concern Main limitation I see on a tower is they are tall and narrow and more often, I'd much prefer a longer run. I did find some products like this Kwikstage which seem a bit of a between solution, never seen these before...

Both my house and some very tall hedges are much easier to work on with a proper platform, at first storey height or above. Having had scaffold on the house I really appreciate how easy it makes things and how it makes more jobs possible to DIY. I could see we would get regular use out of a...

Bit of an update, I contacted Baxi and it turns out they offer fixed-price for £369 with a £90 call-out if they cannot repair. They ALSO offer a monthly "repair out of warranty monthly plan" for £30.75 a month, over 12 months (same total cost if you don't renew). Under the plan they come for an...

Chipboard is probably even worse than ply for water unless you get a special type. You often see buildings faced in OSB left for quite some time in the weather, it seems to be the go-to option these days.

The comment I'd seen on screws was the heads can dimple it a bit - but maybe this is being a bit anal, I'm not sure. If it's cosmetic only, perhaps doesn't really matter. I wonder if one can simply tape them but then you don't tape the OSB joints as far as I've seen so may be OTT. This is a...

Osb3 is reasonably good with moisture, definitely better than plywood which delaminates easily (all the layers unstick)... This is the problem we have and why I'm having to replace it. You can get moisture resistant marine plywood but it costs a fortune. Every video I've seen they use OSB and it...

3 quick questions... 1. Am I right in thinking nothing other than 18mm OSB3 should be considered for this? 2. Has everyone switched to the half-size T&G boards these days despite the higher cost? 3. We would be screwing through 150mm to the sub-structure, should I be doing anything to the...

What's the reasoning behind this - just not knowing what you might hit?