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Well there is the 50mm of insulation too. I can see 120mm and 150mm options, guessing 120 is just a bit on the short side. Would you pilot drill through battens, pir into brick with a long drill then just whack the screw in? That's sounds quite a quick way to do things

I'm affixing 50mm PIR on a low brick wall and I plan to glue the boards to the wall first then batten on top with 25mm battens and mechanically fix through. There's quite a few options for fixings - hammer/frame fixings, rawl+long screws, and various fixings that don't need a rawl. Prices vary...

yeah I can imagine this is harder than it looks to get all the boards flush (I only have a 800mm high dwarf wall so hoping not quite so bad.)

On my greenhouse rebuild project, the structure is on a slope. At the top (left in photo) end, the floor is around a foot below ground level and the top end of the concrete floor rests on the ground (no DPM) - the rest of the building the floor is suspended and above ground level by several...

So cutting PIR accurately is tricky enough at 90 degrees (I use the SkillBuilder tip) without trying to do at an angle. I wonder if I can use my circular saw on an angle just to start it off - I am aware of the dust problem :)

I have never used dot'n' dab and saw a recommendation for Dryfix. It sounds great especially for a DIY-er without the experience of D&D, would others recommend it from personal use? I've seen cost mentioned as a con but even at £12 a can, that looks to be ~£3 per full board and as I am looking...

He loves his gapo (watched a bunch of guys videos)...I love the concept but it costs half as much as the PIR! They need to invent squishy PIR :) Thanks.

I am insulating between rafters with PIR in a home project (my greenhouse conversion) and not sure what to do at the peak and in the eaves since the end of the board won't butt perpendicular to the ridge, etc. Do I try and mitre the ends of the PIR boards or accept it won't fit snugly and...

Thanks, I hadn't heard of those before, assume this sort of thing is what you mean - they self drill and provide reinforcement? https://www.toolstation.com/brickfix-helical-bar/p58328 It may well be subsidence although there doesn't seem much vertical displacement and the crack starts partway...

This is a former Victorian hot house, now being converted as a garden room. We've already reduced the chimney to about half height but I've noticed a crack running up the remainder. It doesn't reach the top or bottom for now and isn't actually functional, but I'd like to stop it getting worse...

We plan to replace the top deck on a warm-roof project. It is a standard setup currently T&G lower deck -> VPL -> PIR -> 18mm ply -> shingles and the ply will be re-laid with OSB and EPDM used so the new roof will retain the PIR and be virtually the same except using EPDM as the weatherproof...

Just to clarify, do I need to glue both sides or is it ok/best to glue one side only, then seal up to it on the other? I.e. is the glue only there to hold it in place so it can be sealed later?

Thanks, sounds I was trying to do 2 jobs at once no wonder it wasn't going well. The skeleton gun has always been my most hated tool. I've learned so much over the last few years but this always seems to go wrong no matter how careful I am or how much I watch others for advice

And then seal afterwards presumably. It's a big of a pain I've got to do this up a ladder, so pre gluing the sections I'm probably going to get up there and find it's stuck on my hand :) I was waving a 5' length around with a skeleton gun in the other hand like right idiot, decided I'd stop and...

I'm adding pvc quadrant trim to a large 2x1.5m uPVC window to weatherproof. I thought this would be the easy finishing touch but I'm having a right time getting the adhesive on a long bendy bit of plastic neatly! Should I be getting glue (I'm using white Sticks Like ****) on both sides to stick...

I had not realised this (that it should be done or was my responsibility). The company said exactly the same thing and that often they charge to do it on larger projects. Well we have had this scaffold for over 6 months and this is the top lift. I don't know how long it takes to fail but it...

When I upload the same file directly from my phone (which is often larger than what's in Google) it works fine. I _think_ the issue is the forum is not taking a copy of the image just a link to it.

3-4 feet it looks like, what I can see from this room. It seems like localised rot as the rest of the board is solid, bit of a crack was maybe holding water. I've been on it as have various trades several times and never noticed it until my foot went right through it today :) Should a...

Well the PIR products all have thermal conductivity of about 0.02 across the market and when I look at Kingspan therma range, their wall/floor products have the same compression rating of 140 (the roof version is only 100). Their premium Kooltherm floor board is 120 so realistically it seems...

I've had a full-height scaffold on my house for several months. Up on the top eaves-height lift today, I had the quite scary experience of a plank snapping directly under me. A very lucky escape as the snap was right in the middle between two supports . Inspecting the plank it was rotten in the...