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Thanks @Avocet I want aware of the glass distinction. Knowing that could just possibly save a life... A friend recently had a very narrow escape on an icy road, but for a well positioned tree the car would have ended up in the water

Or lend the car to Grandma ;)

So if I am the only one changing my wheels, could I normally avoid needing the bar after the first time I get them all loose, if I don't over tighten? Or do they tend to stick over the months? Clearly I need a bar anyway in case, I'm just wondering if I would need it every time. The torque...

I've seen videos of car windshields withstanding sledgehammers. That's why you need a special tool to break it if heaven forbid you are ever stuck in a river... Same tool the thieves use. Side topic but everyone should have one (with seatbelt cutter) But if someone is coming towards me with a...

Absolutely... And ensure your doors are locked. The best fight is one you avoid, etc. I can understand the desire for a defence weapon to maybe brandish at someone so they back off but if someone is running at you with a hammer, now you face having to use it for real against someone who is...

That's not so bad. I inherited a proper floor jack (not sure if ideally I need 2?)... I was mentally extrapolating how long it takes to change a flat at the side of the road in the dark, in the rain!

I was specifically hoping to avoid the bar - is that simply not realistic without buying a crazy pro grade gun? I'd not considered this so good to know in advance before I imagine F1 style changes

We currently swap between summer and winter tyres and want to instead have two sets of wheels, so we just swap the wheels (common in many countries). I'd be keen to do this myself but am not sure which tool I need (I don't want to do it all by hand every time) I already have an impact driver...

We have heard great reviews on this stuff for kitchens, etc: https://www.decoratingwarehouse.co.uk/johnstones-acrylic-durable-eggshell-water-based We've just had our church kitchen re-skimmed in a full refit and normally I would 'prime' the bare plaster with watered down cheap white paint and...

It was bouncing around it's 1.5ish bar so probably between 1 and 2. It was just acting like you were shaking it making the needle wobble, in time with each bang from inside. Afterwards the pressure was still good. I don't know exactly what it was at before but no obvious drop remembering where...

Filling loop being the two black 'taps' on the right hand side underneath? If so they are definitely turned off (I checked) - are they a part that could fail and be stuck open though? The pressure dial is (apart from when it went crazy) holding steady at just over 1 bar. Prv presumably is the...

Very similar symptoms to this other thread on our Baxi duo tec Combi 40 e: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/boiler-pressure-going-mental.304352/ I've heard it take a few times but never got to it in time, it only lasts for a minute or so. Today I heard it - sounded like someone running along...

I think this is general atmospheric moisture, the bits in question (shouldn't) ever get direct water on them. Well, they were when they wouldn't shut but they still had paint on them :) I thought I'd got away with it as they were stable until a week back. Then winter properly arrived :)

Ta. Will it make much difference to how quickly they absorb further water?

The last week I've had 4 different outside doors all swell and stick. They were all painted and I've obviously lost the paint planing them to close... is it important to repaint immediately to prevent the exposed wood absorbing more moisture? It's really not a great time of year for painting but...

I've received 2 Spectus quickslide sash windows and was pleasantly surprised to see they come fully preassembled. This includes the 152mm cill - it is screwed to the bottom of the frame. Initially I thought that was just to hold it in place for transport, but it's fully sealed as well. I'd...

Thanks, I hadn't considered the effort with much stiffer materials either.

Thanks guys, that's a big help.

I'm looking to build a warm-roof on a cabin, employing rigid PIR insulation and an EPDM rubber top layer. The basic order would be, top->down: EPDM rubber sheet OSB top deck PIR boards (150mm most likely) VPL membrane (PVC sheet) boarded bottom deck (also serves as the ceiling) roof...

@Notch7 so essentially pushing the piece 'lengthways' into the saw but using a backing piece to stabilise and make it safe? I might go to the hand saw for peace of mind as it's only a little bead but thanks this technique makes sense. I'll have a practice with some scrap first :)