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Thanks, that’s useful. Just to clear something up — the floor gap is foamed now, and on the thermal camera the floor edge is actually warm. The only cold area is the sill/frame junction, and that’s exactly where you can feel the draught with your hand. The photos I've added are from the...

Thanks for the reply, honestly appreciate you taking the time. Just to add a bit more info because I think the photos might explain things better. The cold I’m seeing on the thermal camera isn’t coming up from the floor — the floor edge is actually warm because the installers foamed that whole...

Thanks — this is actually where my thinking has ended up too. It doesn’t look like a slab issue anymore, more like a combination of: • no insulation under the sill • no proper air seal under there either • and the sill touching cold brick in a few spots So cold air (and cold from the brick...

I’m also not sure the left/right thing works in practice though — real installations aren’t usually symmetrical. There can be small differences in: how the sill sits on the brick how well each side was sealed how much foam expanded on each end how hard the sill is touching the masonry tiny...

Thanks again — appreciate you taking the time to think it through. A couple of things just don’t line up with what I’m seeing on the thermal camera though: The floor in that whole area is consistently warm (orange/yellow). If the ground/slab underneath were transmitting cold upward, I’d expect...

Thanks — that was actually my first thought too. Only issue is there isn’t really any space to pump foam under the sill. I measured it and the gap is only about 3–5 mm, and the installers already said they couldn’t get insulation in there because there’s basically no void. Also the sill is...

Thanks for the reply — appreciate the thoughts. Just to add a bit more context from what I’m seeing: The floor in that area is actually warm on the thermal camera (yellow/orange), so it doesn’t look like the slab is pulling cold in. If the floor were the issue I’d expect the edge of it to show...

Thanks. The thermal images show the coldest area is the sill/frame junction, not the floor. The concrete slab sits under insulated flooring and the temperature drop matches the uninsulated sill line exactly. There also appears to be no thermal break under the sill from installation day photos.

Hi all, I’d appreciate some advice from people who know more about window/door installation than I do. We had new REHAU Rio patio doors with sidelights fitted earlier this year by a small FENSA-registered company. We are getting very noticeable cold and draughts around the bottom of the...

Thanks for you post @Ivor Windybottom. That all makes sense and I was planning to go the cavity closer route so it reconfirms that. On a separate note - with the botoom row of bricks now exposed and before the door sill comes in should I butt the DPC up the screed by 20-30mm? I was thinking of...

Hi everyone, I’m working on a house built in the 1950s and have an exposed opening where French doors (with two side windows) used to be. The wall is currently a mix of cement-based products and exposed blockwork with a metal grid (likely from the old dwarf wall). The wall itself is 280mm...

I guess that is the thing - I assume if it is a standard brick & block wall with no render that would stop water penetrating it would allow the water to pass through therefore the insulation may get moist etc. Would it still work with these non rigid insulation products that are advertised as...

Do you mean I should follow on and get the knauf one instead of the leftover Rockwool for cavity wall insulation?

I have a leftover 50mm insulation Rockwool sound insulation slab RWA45 that I used in floor insulation like this one: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Rockwool-Sound-Insulation-Slab---50-x-400-x-1200mm/p/234857 Can I use it to fill in 50mm cavity wall or it is not a good idea? I cannot use anything...

Ah I just realised that to the right where you see the wooden props there is a screed layer over door opening under which there would be the continuation of the DPC. Since I have to cut out that screed to install new doors I think that will be the time to inspect the DPC and possibly overlay the...

So I removed the brick now and very small bit of DPC broke off but it is behind the brick (above the cavity) not above it (it was torn off at the edge of the brick). Looks like the DPC used is wider than the bricks themselves (102.5mm) at about 112mm and creates slight overhang. I suppose it is...

Hi, I am working on a door opening and have a question about DPC. As you can see on the attached photo I have a few bricks removed and one near the DPC remaining and am unsure whether to replace it or just fill it in with mortar :unsure: I have a replacement brick but the problem is with the...

Thanks I was just looking for general ideas which way to extend how would it connect to the existing house if I chose to go the double storey extension.

Hi everyone, I’m looking for advice on the best way to extend my house to create a 4th bedroom. Based on the floor plans (attached), the staircase is in the middle of the house, with the kitchen/dining room on the left and the living room on the right. I have around 7m of land to the side of...

Thank you very much for your insights - it's been very valuable. How do I achieve that as boiler goes into standby after few minutes of HW only? Boiler flow temperature is already at max now. The flow is the top one (normal inlet) and return is the bottom one (normal outlet) Would you have...