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It'll have an olive in the connection to the copper pipe below, but I very much doubt there's an olive in the connection to the radiator.

I don't think that nut has an olive in it. It is not a compression joint but is instead a standard radiator connector with domed tail screwed into the radiator and the valve having a matching socket which is held tight to the dome by the nut in question. Originally these types of joints were...

Yes, I think replacement valves are the best way forward. In my experience, once radiator valves start to leak, it can be possible to stop the leak in the short term, but it doesn't last and leaking will start again.

But the system as shown remains open by virtue of the vent pipe curving over the F&E tank and discharging into it, if necessary. The pipe from bottom of the F&E tank doesn't need to be open and a gate or quarter turn valve here is convenient if you want to drain the CH circuit without emptying...

Why is the gate valve on the feed from the F&E tank "illegal"?

The picture of the underside appears to show plenty of room to wield a junior hacksaw - why not cut the bolt there?

I don't think there is enough space between washing machine and radiator for lifting the machine - it won't clear the worktop. If left there it's also going to be a problem if the machine needs any repairs or attention - you can't get to the back of it. Only long term solution is to move the...

I suspect that when British Gas fitted the new heat exchanger, they drained the system and, when they refilled it, they didn't bother to add any corrosion inhibitor. So now your steel radiators are corroding and emitting gas - not air but mainly methane. You need to get corrosion inhibitor put...

Yes, poor practice by the plumber. He couldn't be bothered to get a proper chrome plated brass, or stainless steel, screw and just used a mild steel one he had rolling around in his tool box.

Then the best thing is to use copper, either with compression fittings or with solder. Both are very secure

I would use good old Polyfilla built up in layers, but others may make suggestions that are better.

Yes, that's what the OP wants to do. His issue is how to do it without draining down the CH system.

You could use a couple of pipe freezing kits to make ice bungs each side of the drain valve. These typically give you around 30 mins working time before they start to melt. I have successfully changed radiator valves using these.

Having a non vented combi boiler and CH system doesn't preclude you having a CW storage tank feeding a HW storage cylinder. That cylinder can also have an electric immersion heater so you have a HW backup if/when the boiler has a fault.

Why would you want to do that? Having a CW storage tank means you have a backup in the event of a water supply outage - which is some areas seem to be becoming more frequent.

I've found packing glands with PTFE tape is very effective and pretty long lasting.

You could also use freezing kits to form a plug in the pipe feeding the valve you want to change. These typically give around 30 minutes of work time before the plug begins to melt. I've used them successfully on several occasions

Well, you might save around £1.50 if you get this thread & nut but your handle might not fit into it. Just get the whole new assembly!

It's surprising that you got any seal if there was no olive. Are you sure there wasn't an old olive already there from the old gate valve? If that's the case, that is what is providing the seal and, although not ideal, it's probably going to be OK

The plastic pipes don't look to be properly clipped and supported and could sag over time, possibly leading to leaks. I think your installer was being a bit lazy with his work!