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I've discovered a cable in a wall of my house. The wall is external, but inner leaf is still constructed from studwork/plasterboard, as it is a timber framed house. The cable isn't currently in a permitted zone. It is protected by RCD. It is buried less than 50mm from the surface. I wanted to...

Cheers. I've got plenty of taping to do in the room so may just do this while I'm at it. I've never taped over an existing finished joint before but I'm sure it will be fine.

Cut it out on the ceiling side too? It is set pretty strong, I'd struggle to remove it without damaging the board.

Thanks will give it a go. Is there another option to re-tape the entire corner with paper tape? Not sure whether this works over the top of an already plastered/painted ceiling, or whether it is worthwhile.

Yes. The walls are plasterboard over wooden studs. I intend to add a couple of extra screws thru the wall boards in case the failure was a result of movement in the wall boards.

80s house, walls and ceiling are both plasterboarded. The ceiling is sound and intact. The white surface at the top is the ceiling, the scrim is exposed at the top of the wall as I've scraped away the flaking filler/joint compound.

I've got an issue with joint between ceiling and wall that is partially failing. It looks like it has been taped with fibreglass mesh, then the ceiling has been fully skimmed whereas the wall seems to be finished with some kind of jointing compound. The wall side of this joint is failing in a...

I have also toyed with the idea of having 2-way switches for the sconce put in, one by the door and the other by the bed. Am I also right in thinking that there's nothing in the regs preventing a wall switch near the bed being at a lower level so it is reachable without getting up?

I suppose the intent was to switch the light on/off solely from the sconce whilst laying in bed.

Thanks. The power seems to be taken from the ceiling rose and runs direct to the sconce. I did think a wall switch near the door might be useful although maybe not if the sconce built-in switch has been turned off!

Hi all, just wanted to check something. As I understand it, there is no requirement for a sconce light to have a separate wall switch, is this right? E.g., if the light fitting itself has an integrated switch, it can just be wired direct into the live feed. Many thanks.

Thanks for the tip! Will definitely double check before I finalise anything! I intend to make them plenty deep enough, I am sick of flatpack wardrobes where the hanger barely lets the door close.

Thanks everyone. I think I am going to carcass it out and fit an end-panel which I'll spray to match the rest of the woodwork in the room. I don't have a table saw, so would be making do with a plunge track saw or the old fashioned way!

I didn't know anything like that existed, thanks I will take a look.

When I think of furniture panels I imagine those veneered chipboard type affairs that don't appear particularly sturdy. I had a quick search and found some solid pine ones but they seem relatively pricey considering I don't necessarily want a woodgrain finish on the side panel. Is this what you...

Hi all I'm aiming to construct a built-in wardrobe in one of my bedrooms and looking for any recommendations for how to go about it. It will go into the corner of the room, and be part-width, so I'll need to construct a side wall. It will be full-height, tall doors at the bottom into the main...

Roof covering will be 12mm osb or ply depending what the merchant has. Think I'm going to go for the 1/3 raised tie, easy to build and should do the job.

For the walls? Featheredge probably.

Makes sense, thanks.

I tend to do your first option. Mainly because any caulk required on the architrave also then gets fully undercoated and painted (I actually use everbuild instant nails for both sticking and caulking the trims). If you are water-based on the trims then you can likely tape it up with yellow frog...