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Can you move the top knob to the middle and not bother with the rain shower as a temp measure ?

Turn off some of the other radiators to increase pressure to the faulty one - this may clear the problem then you can restore things back to normal.

Is it in fact a power shower i.e. a shower pump ? This type need a bit of water flow to start the pump so you opening a tap causes a shock wave in the pipe causing the pump to start. You need to check why there is not enough flow to trip the switch to start the pump. Isolating valve not fully...

If there is a problem i.e. combi boiler shower output is effected by a cold tap being opened elsewhere then it may be worth it.

Surely , it depends on the size of cable already installed for the EV charger ? If there is spare capacity then you can T off it for a garage CU. Or put a larger CU on the end of the existing cable with positions for the EV charger, power sockets and lighting circuits.

Please give details of your hot and cold system. Are they both from a tank or do you have a combi boiler or some other system ? A traditional boiler would have a hot water cylinder etc

You need to look for the sticker on the valve itself to get the original manufacturer's part number.

One solution is to use a timer fan with live supply (as normal) but use a separate "momentary" pull switch to trigger it (Instead of the light switch). The momentary pull switch only provides a live when being pulled but switches off when released. This triggers the timer fan which then runs...

Operator fault !!

Draw yourself a two way diagram for two switches and use the existing wires to achieve it. I.e start from scratch

We found the outside humidity (raining) set the fan going as the fan was on an outside wall so short duct. Increased the humidity setting but then it didn't come on quickly enough during shower. So we just use the timer mode.

If you are very patient you could cut the elbow off without touching the pipe inside and then sandpaper the pipe ready for a new elbow. There may be a way to un-weld the glue ?

These days you have to declare things when selling a house and provide a gas safe certificate : you could get a second opinion but looks like a new boiler to me. 18 years is pretty good for modern boilers as they are more complex.

Look around eBay etc - there are some "new" old stock gas valves around. Some people bought a spare and never needed it ! Check the part numbers and photos. PS Is that the manufacturer part number ? Should have a bit more detail manufacturer's name etc,

Looks like a complicated job to replace with new TRVs - the fittings on both sides look incompatible with current TRV connections.

I have an old central heating system, boiler and pump installed 1997, a cast iron Potterton Kingfisher still going strong ! I plan to change the two pumps next spring - Grundfos Ups 15 50 Does CH and a DAB which just does the HW. Since then, CH pumps have gone "Smart" . The question is should...

Blast all the flow through this radiator by turning all the others off - just in case there is some sort of blockage or air lock. Then bleed again.

Can you have a motorised bypass that only opens on the overrun ?

If a stopcock is not turning off fully, an old plumbers trick is to let the water drip somewhere else where it doesn't matter. Another tap which is lower than where you are working or loosen a joint upstream where you can get a bowel under it.

Maybe the stopcock is not fully on - water may cause a hissing sound as it forces it's way past a narrower opening.