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I couldn't, but would it actually be any easier with another drain arrangement? I can't tell.

Thanks for the replies, I think I understand the procedure. You can appreciate that I'm tempted to ignore it seeing as it's been in place for 30ish years already. Apart from "rats in my bathroom", what are the likely consequences of long(er) term use of it as is?

Hello. I've had some surprises already in my bathroom, and I just found another. It's in a ground-floor extension at the back of the house and it appears that an existing outside garden drain has been crudely re-purposed to take the shower waste. Here you can see the footprint of the old shower...

I need to pour SLC to a precise depth so that it perfectly matches some other surface that's currently higher (by 6mm) than the rest of the sub-floor. What is the best approach for this, should I just pour it as close as I can but ever so slightly too shallow, then smooth the tiny remaining step...

I've read that treated wood is highly corrosive to most metal fasteners and special types must be used. I must say that I had never respected this requirement in the past when it came to nailing into fence posts and so on. I'm building a shed floor frame from treated wood now and don't want to...

Ok, thanks. I might do away with the plastic altogether as there isn't room for two brick/concrete pieces on most of the piers. I got some treated wood for the floor frame, now I need to find out what nails are safe to use with it. I just get mine from bins in the local hardware store, no...

I'm building a shed/summer house kind of thing. I have the foundations done, from top to bottom we have: --75mm fence posts as bearers --square of plastic sheet --shims (roof felt, scraps of wood) --100-200mm of concrete blocks or bricks --thin layer of gravel --soil There are five...

ok, thanks. I won't be doing it for a few days yet, need to make sure I'm ready for the new toilet. But that does depend on the state of the floor underneath, I suppose.

Every job seems to come back to that. (You should see my electrics!)

The screw holes on this toilet pan are filled with some hard material that can't easily be chipped out. Either it's covering the screws, which seems very odd, or just plugging the empty holes and the pan is fixed to the floor some other way? How am I going to remove this, smash it out...

Not sure where I'd get that, I'd rather stick to stuff I can pick up locally. Wickes also has this stuff very cheap, £10/bag: http://www.setcrete.co.uk/products/universal/

I just read here: http://answers.wickes.co.uk/answers/9987-en_gb/product/224669/questions.htm?page=2 "This product will not work over existing tile adhesive as this will not adhere correctly." Do we agree? If so, what compound could I use instead? I will much prefer a long drying time...

Another complication - there are a number of water hot/cold water pipes set into the concrete floor only about 15mm deep. Could I safely avoid them with a metal detector of some kind, not sure that works with copper, though...? I couldn't fix ply down without knowing where they were.

I'm pretty sure I can detect a foul smell if I put my face close to the edge of the manhole cover, so I guess it's not properly sealed any more. So I guess I now have to remortgage the house to get it taken up and fitted properly?

Go through this thread if you're interested: http://www.diynot.com/forums/plumbing/drain-cover-in-middle-of-bathroom-floor.401216/ Thanks - but what's wrong with the foam, will it cause problems?

Things just get off track when I include too many details and I end up with no conclusive answers and more confused than when I started. I'd like to just deal with the ply option here, let's assume that for one reason or another SLC won't be suitable. It's occurred to me that cheap 2mm...

There are complications such as a sunk manhole cover which mean SLC may be a problem, hence my preference for ply.

Thanks - I just read from one SLC product that it shouldn't be applied to old tile adhesive (I don't know why). Is the ply option acceptable? If I used this stuff: http://www.diy.com/nav/build/timber/sheet-materials/plywood/WPB-Exterior-Plywood-2440x1220x6mm-13368694 I'd certainly end up...

Damn, OK. So it has to be bang on to the mm, sounds very awkward :/

Ah well, thanks both - there's a first time for everything... I guess the way the tank adaptors work there's about 10mm of leeway in pipe length, right? Where the pipe slides into the adaptor before the compression fitting is screwed up.