Search results

My needs for power in the outbuilding are minimal - I'm intend to fit a couple of LED battens and my needs for power are unlikely to extend beyond the use of garden equipment or power tools. As such I'm not concerned about overload and in this event if I have to walk to the house I can live with...

I can't remember which is which (I'll test them and find out before I configure it) but the other 3 PIR's are downstairs in the lounge, kitchen and office. The keypad is right next to the front door so I have no need to pass any PIR between setting the alarm and leaving the house. I do also...

I want a Full Set option for when I'm out of the house. Everything should be enabled and should trigger the alarm instantly except for Zone 1 which needs an entry and exit delay for the front door. Then a Part Set which can be used overnight. Front door and Zones 2-4 should trigger a delay so...

That makes the most sense to me - that way any nuisance or accidental tripping of the RCD from outside won't impact the house. In which case I do need a CU in the outbuilding - it still feels a little redundant right now given the whole circuit is protected by a 16A MCB and RCD within the house...

I've successfully reset my control panel today and can now access the engineer settings. I've largely managed to set things up as I want them but I'm a little confused around a couple of the zone settings. I have the following sensors: Zone 1 - Front Door Zone 2 - PIR Zone 3 - PIR Zone 4 - PIR...

My house has (all installed prior to my ownership) a brick outbuilding. There is an SWA cable feeding the outbuilding via a 16A MCB in the main consumer unit within the house protected by a 30mA RCD. Within the outbuilding there is a small consumer unit with a 30mA RCD, a 6A MCB feeding some...

Cool. The bathroom outlet has a coupler already in the pipe which is roughly halfway from the fan and the outside grille, looking at it I should simply be able to swap out the coupler for the backdraught shutter without altering anything else. I'll probably get a metal one. It definitely feels...

I have cowled vents on both my bathroom and kitchen fans. They're both on the same side of the house and have been rattling really badly with the wind over the last week. I was wondering whether it'd be worth replacing the cowled vent with a standard louvre (with or without flyscreen -...

The two do screw together. I've got plenty of spare elbows and isolation valves and stuff lying around, I'll just take a nut and olive off one of those then I crack on and get it replaced tomorrow.

Definitely no nut and olive in the box, and it was sealed when I bought it so seems unlikely it would have been removed. Can I use a nut and olive off any other 15mm fitting i.e. are they all the same, or should I go get another tap and see if it comes with the fittings? I just had to look for...

I've just bought a Franke Sion tap to replace my kitchen tap and I have a question around the flexible tails it came with. I've attached a couple of pictures of the supplied tails. 1) The tail for the hot water is like most I've seen before and I assume I just need to fit a male coupler to...

I believe they're 4-5 years old. I'm not bothered about the cost of the fittings - in fact I think I've got some Polyplumb fittings left over from the last job I did so probably don't need to buy anything if they need to be replaced anyway. If I remove the fittings completely, do I need to cut...

I'm looking to replace my kitchen tap. The plumbing under the sink is all copper pipe with JG Speedfit fittings. I need to alter the pipework for the new tap. My only experience of pushfit is with Polyplumb which I know shouldn't be re-used - ignoring the fact half the components come out with...

What's the best way of fixing metal clad boxes together? I've thought a 20mm galvanised coupler with a brass bush inside each socket. This will mount them nice and straight and also allow cables to be passed across from one to the other. Ideally I'd like them closer together than the length of...

Interestingly this is something I debated with myself when recently rewiring my own kitchen. I went to the other extreme and now pretty much everything has a dedicated feed and MCB of 16A or less. My own thought process was the oven itself can't cause an overload, but a short circuit, let's say...

I've installed some outside lights however they are only temporarily wired as I couldn't decide whether I wanted to control them via a light sensor, a timer, or a combination of the two. Anyway, I've decided to control them with a TP Link Smart Plug which will bring them on at sunset and off at...

I have another question around positioning of the photocell. The front of the house where the lights will be installed faces south and without a huge amount of work and cabling, the photocell will also need to face south. I'd assumed that facing south was probably the best scenario however...

I must admit that's a very valid point. I'm intending to run 2 x 3W LED lamps which will cost less than £4 a year to run for 12 hours a day - given I can pick up the bog standard photocell for < £10 the extra £20 for the more elaborate option is going to take 5 years to recover the cost... maybe...

Hmm, I must admit I hadn't considered the combination of a dusk sensor and a timer but that makes a lot more sense. I don't really need the lights on right through the night, I just want them to come on at dusk and stay on until the latest I tend to come home, so say 6 hours would be sufficient...

I'm looking to fit some outdoor lights and I'm contemplating between operating them with a timer or fitting a photocell. I think the photocell is my preferred option and I'm looking at one of the below: https://www.screwfix.com/p/ced-standalone-photocell/980cg...