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Disconnect the in-element thermostat and fit a separate wall attached unit further down the tank

It's literally that simple but you might have to slow down the circulating pump or at least ensure there's a circulating loop. Be prepared for black oily sludge to come out of the radiators or you'll need a whole new set of carpets as well.

If you are totally committed to a heat pump why not scrap the oil boiler system entirely and heat your water cylinder with an immersion heater - after first super-insulating it.

Clearly your inhibitor was either put in long after your system had started to corrode and sludge up or it was put in at far too low a concentration. I'd suggest you refit the radiator and dose your system with a sludge cleaner at the correct concentration. Following the appropriate period of...

I think that illustrates my point rather well :giggle:

Is it just me or do others agree that "up-the-pole" cable installations of the 21st century are really untidy compared to that of my younger years (1960s onwards)

Doesn't the same 'argument' apply to any 110volt tool/device fed via an extension lead coming from a 55-0-55 transformer who's earth point is inevitably connected to the 240 service supply earth - TNCS or otherwise. The 110 extension lead implying the end user is some distance away from the...

Would have expected the cable route would have been the most direct from outside to inside viz a straight line from outside to inside (unless you can confirm that the exit from the inner wall doesn't match the entry on the outer wall. (That's stop Smart-Aleks from tapping into the cable...

Would have thought that line 11 should be done before line 4

Those Lucas style ammeters were invariably moving-iron rather than moving-coil types and had only one or two turns of heavy copper driving a magnetic pointer. As such the full measured current has to flow through the meter. So not really practical for the modern vehicles need. Apart from that...

"Better be Safe" rings alarm bells. He should know how to do the job and there's no reason why you cannot have a bottom exit (no pun intended)

He wasn't a plasterer - he was plastered There's no nice way to put it You've been conned

If you have a gas boiler that's working then I doubt, after you have taken everything into account, you'll get anything cheaper to run. You need to factor into your equation the actual running costs, the capital outlay, the depreciation costs of the new equipment (it won't last for ever) and...

You may well find that the available 1kW unit suits your system. Solar panel output droops as the load increases. For example connecting a 1kW load to a solar array producing 48 volts with no load may well cause enough voltage droop to reduce the effective load to much less than 1kW

Please explain your theory

Which will cost you around £500. For that sum you could build a sound-proof enclosure several times over

From the photo it looks as if the lower nut might be cross-threaded (there appears to be a gap at the bottom but no gap at the top

Oak will rot mild steel so if you are using screwed rod make sure it is 316 grade stainless steel

That equipment doesn't belong to you - it belongs to either BT or Openreach. You need to contact BT and advise them of your requirements. They will get their contractor (Openreach) to come along, do the necessary and send you the bill.

This is a cautionary tale rather than a request for assistance. We have had for some time a Tefal model GV8932GO steam generator iron. The other day it was plugged into the mains, the socket outlet switch turned on but not yet 'activated' by the iron's I/O button. In effect it was in...