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Looking at the T&Cs, it is not a contract I would like to enter into. Being responsible for damage can open a real can of worms, and an analyser used on oil boilers is subject to more contamination than on other fuels.

A pressure gauge will only cost about £10 tops from a pneumatic/hydraulic supplies merchant. I can't think of any hire options for an analyser which is an easily destroyed item in inexperienced hands.

On many taps, the manufacturers instructions specify only fixing to hand tight. I had one just before christmas where the basin tap was with a horshoe washer held in by an 8mm nut. I ended up cutting through the tap and screw above the basin . The waste was a knackered push one and just to...

Take a template to your local merchant and see the available stock.

If you can get hot water, then it's not the boiler stopping your heating. Either you have a valve problem (2 or 3 port depending on system configuration) or If on gravity hot water,(quite likely on an oil system this old) a faulty pump.

Failed solenoid in the shower?

If it's a mixer, which I assume it is from the 'turned up to the red' quote, then that probably would not work. You could try turning down any isolation valve on the hot inlet, but that may need balancing with the cold supply.

Air damper settings specified in any manuals are next to useless. Settings need to be made specifically to a burner, ideally with an analyser, once all oil pressures have been verified. The old fashioned way of doing this was to set to 'smoke' and then back it off a little but this is a time...

If your boiler was set up 'lean' in warmer weather, it may now be too lean to provide a valid flame until it warms a little, and the photocell will initiate reignition. Without a full combustion analysis to eliminate this it is difficult to comment further

This is a very basic system by the sound of it. On a gravity H/W system heating alone cannot be selected. With the Hot water on and the boiler running, you can switch the pump to get heating. A room stat could control the pump and therefore the heating, and the boiler stat will control the flow...

The difference between a dribble of condensation water and the flow of primary water from a failed expansion vessel is very noticeable.

Check your fuel supply/filters for frozen sludge.

What is the full model of the Heatslave? 15/19 is a relatively old model, and is the 'reset' button actually the overheat stat?

What we don't know, and maybe ,neither do you, is how the last boiler was wired. For the frost stat on the return to reach 20c, then the rest of the system will be at or above that temperature (all through the house). Many of my customers did not want, or need that levle of protection, and I...

You need to investigate the reason for the noise. It is usually allied to a leaking shaft seal on the pump.

If you turn down the speed on a combi like yours you may adversly affect the hot water temperature. Combi's usually run on top speed.

Danesmoors are a totally different proposition. As long as the boiler itself is sound, there are generic components for everything else that may fail.

If the oil line enters from the rear, which I'm thinking is normal, then that is the place to check. Isolation valves are not an uncommon feature to leak around the shaft or connections, but also the swaged ends of flexible hoses are a common source of leaks. If yours have not been changed...

Get busy with your multimeter and follow the fault finding guide. Before you start replacing PCB's check for failed end switches in motorised valves and flow switches.

I would monitor this for a day or so, if it continues then call engineer back.