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Cheers buddy

It's just the photo, the teeth appear to be OK.. but you may be right, there may have been contact which I'm not aware off. I have managed to cut the 4x2s now need to cut 18mm plywood.. do you think I can use the 48 teeth one or shall I get a new 24 teeth one for the job?

Thats makes sense, but I don't think I went through any nails. Apologies, I thought I had replied. I did cut the 10mm and 25mm woods with ease.. attached are the pictures of the blade. Perhaps it's a poor quality blade after all..

Using a Sharp or Reciprocating saw doesn't burn the wood and cuts it with ease (although rough) What could it be then? The blade?

I have.. the depth is just over the 2 inchs

Yes bought it just few weeks ago.. I did cut the old floor boards.. it was relatively easy, the only thing different with this was the It's a cross cut. Get your point about me not operating it correctly but I wouldn't have thought it would be rocket science lol

Thanks for the input guys.. Will try it on another material and report back.

As if you start cutting when using a the Mitre Saw..

True.. its a Parkside 1350w electric handheld saw. Running upto speed properly. It's not a table saw, it's a hand held saw with 2200 to 4700 rpm, set to speed setting 6 as per the handbook.. The 4x2s are fresh C24s so like you I was suspecting it was smoking because is its new and fresh...

I would assume its the right way round as I just took it out of the box. Yes it's alright teeth wood blade

Trying to cut new 4x2s. I have a brand new circular saw but cutting 4x2s is a nightmare.. its smoky and takes a bit of effort.. I'm suspecting it's the blade but not sure.. can someone recommend a good blade? Or is it the 4x2s?

Super, thanks Andy

Thanks Togo. I'm confused what size to get .. whilst all other fittings are either 32mm or 40mm, the Anti Siphone traps show as 11/4" or 11/2". Silly question but anyone know which one is 40mm?

Hi folks, I have installed a new drain (40mm solvent weld pipe and a compression trap) in the new utility room where I have stacked the washing machine and dryer. Each time the washing machine goes through the drain cycle, I can it gurgle.. there are no blocks and the only thing I can think of...

Any thoughts folks?

Hi folks, I have been reading alot on this subject, some suggest SBR Bond and BAL ADP while some suggest Mapei Primer G or F Ball 131. I have got the kitchen floor level using new joists and covering it with 18mm plywood. I plan to tile straight onto plywood so want to check what's the best...

Deffo for L shaped ones. I have, the ones perfect for the job start at £83 so best to buy own which I could use to tile the bathroom next. That's a good idea.. its just the dust that goes everywhere.. I know the DIY tile cutters also space water everywhere..

Hi all, What tile cutter would you recommend to cut 600x300 porcelain floor tiles? Nothing expensive, just cheap and cheerful would be ideal. Thanks in advance

It's about the current draw.. your double socket is rated and tested at 13A. If you run both simultaneously and if the current draw is higher than 13A you are putting too much load. Hence why I have 2x1 Gang sockets each at 13A to let me run the washing machine and dryer simultaneously

Thanks, the dryer and washing machine will be plugged in 1gang double pole socket each.