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Seems more of a European thing which is why it's on the Knipex website. It gives an example of NYM cables, copy and pasted from a Google search: NYM cable (NYM-J/NYM-O) is a standard, versatile sheathed PVC electrical installation cable widely used in Europe for fixed wiring in homes...

What about the Monument one or Armeg jaw dropper?

I’ve not used them, but they seem to get good ratings. When I was in Nationwide, they were on the top 5 or something for customer service, Nationwide weren’t. I think banks have a similar thing with debit cards, but sounds good. Monsoon also do day to day banking as well now.

Maybe here? https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/pitacs-t-e-cable-quality.555883/ But this is for Pitacs/Time. Surprised it’s not made where vast majority of anything is made, in prc (China).

I wonder if the monument adjustable one would work, failing that armed jaw dropper or crows foot type obtaining the correct size.

Ok, safely remove and terminate the hot water off and heating off connections at the Hive and see if the heating comes on, if it doesn’t, then you’ve probably gone awry with your wiring.

The type and sometimes the number of motorised valves Could be an unusual setup

I don't know where block 96 is, but looking at @ericmark's photo it it's the link then yes remove it

Unless you have a y-plan then hot water off isn't required and heating off isn't required

Ok, this is in the wall, have you ran new cabling? You have used all terminals, the previous one used 3

That looks like a heating wiring backplate. Can you show the wiring of the Hive? Did you get a dual channel?

It happened to me yesterday using my work phone (Android).

Hard to tell but looks like a y-plan. As above either stuck micro switch or incorrectly wired

I’ve used Calchem previously and it seems good. As for the constant need to bleed, then it does sound like hydrogen as per @Harry Bloomfield. It seems odd to me that you’re not topping the boiler up frequently. You can also bleed some system water in an unused jam jar, add some nails and leave...

I'm not 100% on which one that is as some are Pro series, but I tried it and although it would work, lights kept flashing on the receiver, so maybe not totally compatible. Sorry, I gave slightly inaccurate information. When COVID hit Honeywell had to revert back to the bdr91 receiver because...

Salus are usually dire won't be and I doubt the T3R will be as they changed the receiver. Only Honeywell products and others made by Honeywell will be compatible with the same receiver, the T2R being one of them. Imho Honeywell aren't what they used to be, I'd just upgrade the full thermostat.

Sorry, got confused by the original needs to connect to 3/8”bsp

Is this any good? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166520724966

It’s the Hot water off connection, iirc terminal 1on the Honeywell. It’s required for the correct operation of the 3 port valve

Upon reading the instructions it states it can be put into manual position for filling, like most 2 port valves.