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I always use warm white.

Thank you folks. I’m picking up some recommended bulbs and a switch (all LED dimmable spec etc ) this morning and will experiment later to see if they do the job. I don’t mind a bit if trial and error as keen to get it right as it’s a key feature in the house being a bit of a gallery area...

Brilliant. I'm happy to change the bulbs themselves to ones that work fine with dimmers, it's the actual style of the downlighter I want to keep. Thank you both.

Hi I don't fully understand how dimmers would work in this situation so are you saying if just one switch gets replaced by a dimmer then all the other switches continue to work as normal ? - which would be great and solve my problem. Now I'm thinking about it I think see the logic ..... there...

Hi all, Have a string of 5 downlighters (that I don't want to change the style) in an L shaped hallway but even using 1.2W GU10 bulbs it's way too bright as we want a nice low level warm effect. I'm assuming dimmers are not immediately easy as there are 3 light switches all linked up as one...

Putting the building regs to one side (not that they should be ignored) the moment you start using a loft space for more than just occasional walking around / dumping stuff the realistic prospect is that the plaster skimmed ceilings in any rooms below will likely crack. Had it exactly here where...

In some sense it's always worth doing a thorough job as possible as fixings and batten don't cost much, but if you are wanting to minimise the work then as said above you'll certainly want noggins in places over 2.4m where the plasterboard ends join. As for everywhere else I look at the...

You don't need to be too precise with the application, basically I would run a bead all around the perimeter, say an inch or so in from the edge and then run some vertical full length lines within that perimeter bead - approx 250 mm apart. Whether it is fresh new plasterboard or old plaster you...

Well for sound reduction the best thing to put between 2 layers of plasterboard is a big fat wedge of air :giggle: as its the "2 leaf" design approach where the trapped air acts as a spring to damp the noise. But we are talking around 100mm minimum air gap and I'm sure you don't want to give up...

I've been involved in design and build of very highly sound insulated recording studios. If you haven't bought the green glue yet then save your money. It's expensive and will only show a noticeable difference when part of a comprehensive fully planned design that involves many other aspects...

I do the double cut like in this video : You have to be handy with the saw but it works well for me - not necessarily dead perfect but I found good enough. I also put the board flat on the floor on top of some old carpet - takes a bit of a knack but I find it traps most of the dreaded dust...

Either above or I would just use the same holesaw to cut a plug out of the spare bit of insulated plasterboard, then just spread some filler round the edge of the plug and push it in to the hole. Wipe off excess, leave to dry for a bit then use filler again to finish off.

I think they mean the gap is to be between the side of the ramp as it runs along the wall (with raised edges or side barriers) and then yeah some kind of bridge at the actual door threshold- otherwise that’s one hell of a bunny hop in a wheel chair

No sign of any DPM and also the other similar ramp at the front also bridges the DPC for several feet and almost totally obscures an air brick, and with no sign of trying to remedy that. BC look to encourage a minimum of 300mm offset from the wall for an adjoining / parallel ramp to avoid DPC...

Assuming you have good access to the nut and the bolt can be kept still then deffo the nut end. Even if you have no option but to turn the bolt end (as the nut end doesn't have much room to turn the spanner) then most bolts have a circular profile under the head to stop you gouging the steelwork...

Thanks guys, I need to get stuck in to this concrete anyway as the plonkers bridged the DPC when they laid the ramp. I'm wondering if I can kill two birds with one stone..... as per the pic the washing machine's new drain position will be just the other side of that door, before the brown vent...

Hi, Want to move washing machine to an external wall, right behind which my 4" sewer runs outside under the path. I normally wouldn't mind hacking out the 6" or so thickness of concrete path but on top of that there has been an additional 8 inches minimum thick concrete disabled access ramp...

That is a chunk of cash, if it were half the price it would prob be a no brainer, but yeah if my next job was £800 worth I’d be stalling …. but now knowing how much easier and neater the tape makes the job it would be even more frustrating to decide to save the cash. If more and more folk use it...

I recently used it for the first time in a vaulted ceiling. Only needed one box and winced at the price..... but felt it was totally worth the much easier job that entailed. Every bit just popped in snugly first time with no buggering around and much less mess. Not sure if a new trick or not but...

Others may elaborate but generally Building Regs come in to it when you change a room to become a “Habitable” room. Even if you don’t intend to use it as such BC take the view that subsequent owners / renters will and therefore regs will apply at the time of doing the work. Planning is only...