Hallway lights too bright

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Hi all,

Have a string of 5 downlighters (that I don't want to change the style) in an L shaped hallway but even using 1.2W GU10 bulbs it's way too bright as we want a nice low level warm effect.

I'm assuming dimmers are not immediately easy as there are 3 light switches all linked up as one circuit, 2 of them being single switches and 1 being a double switch so thats getting a bit awkward. The double switch is also for some entrance lights which are on sensors and therefore permanently switched on so I could do away with switching those somehow and the double becoming a single switch.

I'm happy to split the 5 lights in to 3 on 1 single dimmer switch and the other 2 on to a single switch and with no linking if it comes to it but before I go too far are there some options I'm missing?

Cheers
 
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Why not just fit a dimmer switch replacing a single switch, controlling all 5 lights?

It sounds like one of the single switches will be an 'intermediate' (4 terminals), so DON'T fit the dimmer here.
 
Why not just fit a dimmer switch replacing a single switch, controlling all 5 lights?

It sounds like one of the single switches will be an 'intermediate' (4 terminals), so DON'T fit the dimmer here.
Hi

I don't fully understand how dimmers would work in this situation so are you saying if just one switch gets replaced by a dimmer then all the other switches continue to work as normal ? - which would be great and solve my problem. Now I'm thinking about it I think see the logic ..... there is a dimmer in the circuit and the other switches are effectively just a continuation of the circuit?
 
I don't fully understand how dimmers would work in this situation so are you saying if just one switch gets replaced by a dimmer then all the other switches continue to work as normal ? - which would be great and solve my problem. Now I'm thinking about it I think see the logic ..... there is a dimmer in the circuit and the other switches are effectively just a continuation of the circuit?
Yes, that's effectively what was being said No matter how many switches are involved in switching the lights on'off, replacing one of them with a dimmer (which actually worked satisfactorily) would result in the lights being dimmed (to whatever extent the dimmer was set) no matter which switch was used to switch them on. However, you would then need it to be a dimmer with 'push' on/off functionality (rather than turning a rotary know right down to a 'click') since, otherwise, the dimming would not be set if one turned the lights off using the dimmer.

However, I said "a dimmer which actually worked satisfactorily" - and you could well discover that finding one which works satisfactorily with your particular lights might be quite a nightmare exercise. Random combinations of dimmers and LEDs are often not happy ones!

Kind Regards, John
 
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Yes, that's effectively what was being said No matter how many switches are involved in switching the lights on'off, replacing one of them with a dimmer (which actually worked satisfactorily) would result in the lights being dimmed (to whatever extent the dimmer was set) no matter which switch was used to switch them on. However, you would then need it to be a dimmer with 'push' on/off functionality (rather than turning a rotary know right down to a 'click') since, otherwise, the dimming would not be set if one turned the lights off using the dimmer.

However, I said "a dimmer which actually worked satisfactorily" - and you could well discover that finding one which works satisfactorily with your particular lights might be quite a nightmare exercise. Random combinations of dimmers and LEDs are often not happy ones!

Kind Regards, John
Brilliant. I'm happy to change the bulbs themselves to ones that work fine with dimmers, it's the actual style of the downlighter I want to keep.

Thank you both.
 
You need a 1 gang 2 way dimmer.

If you have LED spots, ask for an LED compatible dimmer.

Go to an electrical wholesalers, and they can advise which one to get.

In your hall you will need to find the 1 gang switch which has three terminals, known as a 1 gang 2 way switch.

If in doubt, send pictures if you can.
 
(which actually worked satisfactorily)
That's the rub, a dimmer switch which will work with no neutral will likely cost £70, and smart bulbs will likely cost £8.48 each so cheaper and simpler to fit smart bulbs. However I have bought in the past GU10 MR16 style bulbs at 0.65 watt at a £1 each, was from Pound World which has now gone, but I am sure you can get smaller bulbs.

Just tested my TCP smart bulbs from Screwfix, and set to dim and switched off, still dim when switched on again, and set to red, and switched off, still red when switched on again. As to if all makes do that I can't say, but Maxim Smart also work that way, those are the only makes I have to try it with. Given price from Screwfix, seems a cheap option. They can be grouped together so you can have them all the same.
 
Thank you folks. I’m picking up some recommended bulbs and a switch (all LED dimmable spec etc ) this morning and will experiment later to see if they do the job. I don’t mind a bit if trial and error as keen to get it right as it’s a key feature in the house being a bit of a gallery area.
Those smart lights look fun and might try them in other places but for this hallway I just need a constant low level effect.

Thanks again.
 
Are you using warm light bulbs or white light ones. I've just put 4 x 2w bright white ones in a ceiling and they are still too bright
 
Yes, that's effectively what was being said No matter how many switches are involved in switching the lights on'off, replacing one of them with a dimmer (which actually worked satisfactorily) would result in the lights being dimmed (to whatever extent the dimmer was set) no matter which switch was used to switch them on. However, you would then need it to be a dimmer with 'push' on/off functionality (rather than turning a rotary know right down to a 'click') since, otherwise, the dimming would not be set if one turned the lights off using the dimmer.

However, I said "a dimmer which actually worked satisfactorily" - and you could well discover that finding one which works satisfactorily with your particular lights might be quite a nightmare exercise. Random combinations of dimmers and LEDs are often not happy ones!

Kind Regards, John
Might be a video in leading/trailing edge dimmers and their function with various brands of led lamps, I’d be interested in their behaviour with incandescent type bulbs as well……..

Found it……. Never mind

P.S. I’ve not seen a scope like that since my days in training as a radar tech in the early 90’s.
 
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Note that dimming LEDs can be an odd experience, not just for the nightmare of actually getting them to dim, but for the colour they end up when dimmed.

Simple dimmable LEDs emit the same colour but just not as bright, whereas resistive element type bulbs' colour temperature warms up a lot when dimmed. If you're used to it then dimming LEDs can lead to a sense that the light should be warmer than it is for the dimness it is..

To counter this some manufacturers make LED bulbs that warm their colour temperature up as they dim - Megaman "dim to warm" and Philips WarmGlow are two that spring to mind.

--

Perhaps sounds daft but have you considered installing a filtering screen in front of the existing bulbs? Or even just seeing if the light levels are more acceptable to you if you remove either 2 or 3 of the bulbs to give an idea of what a less bright world might look like?

I had a bulb that was just a bit too bright for where it was and I ended up colouring it in with a sharpie
 
Ok folks, I've picked up some Phillips dimmable LEDs and a Varilight V-Pro 1-Gang 2-Way LED Dimmer - from the reviews they looked to be a fairly starting point.

Have checked existing switches -
Two have a 3 wire set up L1, L2 and COM and then one of them has 2 conductors going in to each of the L1 and L2
One has 2 x L1 ports and 2 X L2 ports

I'm off for a walk with the missus now and think I need to read up on the dimmer instructions as there's mention of programming, Trailing edge Mode 1, 2 or 3 and simulated leading edge mode (not TRIAC). Then gives various details for 1 Way, 2 Way or multi gang set up.

This is all currently witchcraft to me but I'm general elec savvy so will happily have a full read up when I get back, along with the programming aspect as it does appear to allow some flexibility on min and max brightness and a few other things.

Hopefully a sit down with a coffee and a read later today I'll be a little more wised up and able to ask constructive questions if need be.

Ta.
 
the colour they end up when dimmed
This has been a problem for me, the controls 1676198215325.png have three sections, the colour circle easy to work out what it does, the next slider clearly is brightness, however the bottom slider not really worked out what is does, it seems to have an effect on the colour, it shows % where if colour temperature would expect it to show ºK or something.

Also the bulb seems to work well setting colour temperature, but lighting strip there seems to be a cool and warm LED and moving between cool and warm dims the cool LED and brightens the warm LED and with no defuser you can see two different LED's not a mixture or the light output.

I looked up Magaman 141806 to see the price, and you can get a smart bulb for same price, so why bother? Although Philips WarmGlow seem a better price.
This is all currently witchcraft to me but I'm general elec savvy so will happily have a full read up when I get back, along with the programming aspect as it does appear to allow some flexibility on min and max brightness and a few other things.
Your not the only one, it seems one needs to learn how to use a phone to control lights. I went down the smart bulb/relay route, I could not see the point in dimming switches after all the problems I had with an electronic on/off switch.

The electronic switch to work without a neutral which is normal in the UK to have no neutral at the switch, needs to allow a very small amount of current to flow through the bulb to power the switch, this seems to cause problems with some bulbs, the standard B22d and E27 bulbs seem to work OK, some GU10's seemed to have a little flicker, and the small G9 bulb was a nightmare.

G9-comp.jpgThe small bulb shown replaced the original quartz bulb allowing the cover required with quartz bulbs so if they shatter white hot quartz can't fall on your carpet, and with an on/off switch they seemed to work well, but with the electronic switch, two problems, one they would not switch completely off, I can cure that with a load capacitor, but also a shimmer when switched on, fitting on quartz bulb would stop it, but whole idea was to get rid of quartz bulbs, I tried different makes, and looked at the compatibility chart, but all I was doing was gaining a stock of spare bulbs.

My wife order the large bulb shown on the internet, of the 5 one failed so I looked inside, the smoothing capacitor was nearly as big as the small bulb, but the covers which gave the chandelier its look, would no longer fit, lucky wife likes it without covers, they did work, although technically as it does not show lumen or wattage on the bulb, they should not be sold in the UK.

But the original bulbs were around 2.2 watt, and the large bulbs I would guess around 6 watt, and the switch says bulbs should be over 5 watt, I had assumed this was total wattage, but seems no, it is the wattage of each bulb.

It was after this problem getting switch and bulb to match and work together, I moved over to smart bulbs, around 10 to date, but will admit also had problems, one failed completely after around 9 months, and two have developed a flicker after a year, been replaced with colour changing as hardly any difference in price.

We already had Nest Mini's as radio reception in my part of Wales is non existence, so use them to listen to internet radio, but it means with a hand full of coffee to take to wife, no need to put down to switch on lights, I just say hey google turn on landing lights.

Got to the stage were wife is loosing use of her fingers, even standing next to the smart switch, she still asks google to turn on lights, and loads of other things, like how to spell words. Or what the temperature is.

Not sure it is a good thing, I know I should be able to call 999, but never needed to test it.

I would be interested to hear how you get on, if you put @ericmark in the reply it will auto alert me, same with others putting in their user name means they are alerted.

All best Eric
 

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