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Samsung sbd970c Malaysian version.

There isn't a shower. We had the wiring installed but in the end realised that our combi was better than any electric shower would be. Its happened twice so far, both times in the morning about twenty minutes after being turned on. After replacing the fuse it worked fine for an evening...

Oh god don't mention rats, that'll send the missus crazy. The connections are fine, nice and tight copper all clean. It sounds like my best option is to try and pull a new bit of cable through, not an easy task given the route it takes. That way the cable can be ruled out.

Is there a likely cause of a wiring fault like this? As a layman I can't quite wrap my head around how a fault could develop along a bit of cable, I'd always assumed that the faults would develop in the connections?

Everything blows/trips except the fuse in the plug attached to the seat. The instructions on the seat don't specify a fuse size only a wattage (1500w) which I calculate means 7.5amp. There's a 13 amp fuse in the plug.

Right, it happened again

It's been a long day...hopefully now edited correctly

The mcb marked shower and the rcd next to it plus the 13 amp fuse in the connection unit.

Thanks, you're totally right. I should be more careful I've been to the pub

I'm not an expert but both also tripped when the oven went pop. Plus would seem odd that the 13 amp fuse in the FCU would blow and nothing else would. Is there a reason that the fuse in the FCU would fail but not the one in the devices plug? Both are 13amp.

We have an electric bidet toilet seat in our bathroom. It's connected to an outdoor rated socket in a cupboard under the sink. The socket is fed by 2.5mm t&e that runs to a FCU in the airing cupboard. The FPU is fed from a 10mm cable (originally run for a shower) that connects to its own MCB in...

I have another question about replacing the joists - us it possible to get 'properly' sized ones? The existing joists are 5"x2" and pretty much that size all the way along within a mm or so. When looking for 5"x2" online the ones listed as that size are short on all measurements (commonly 47mm...

Thanks, I'm going to take the rest of the floor up at the weekend so will get pictures then. The wall isn't load bearing, nothing underneath or above and the joists above also run alongside it and not on the top. The joists are spaced the same accross the floor (probably about 12 inches). The...

Following on from my previous thread I've decided to just replace the joists and use slate tile to replace the rotten board they sit on. Looks to be an easy enough process since the masonry pockets are quite deep. Only problem is that one of the joists has a wall on top. The wall is single...

I've posted about my damp problems before but now I'm ready to tackle the damage. I've taken up a couple of floor boards this morning and have attached some photos. The joist ends all show some evidence of rot to certain extents and a couple are no longer attached into the pockets. The...

Very easily, just make sure the floor is level

Managed to get it wired up last night and gained some space by pulling the unit out slightly. Oven is however touching the central heating return pipe at the back. Since the case shouldn't get too hot I'm not too worried about heat but am worried about the pipe expanding and contracting against...

Previous oven was only single and didn't go down that far. Only exposed the pipework this morning when I took the bottom off the oven unit carcass. The part of the oven that needs to go into the unit is 55cm deep. The pipe is 53cm (at best) to the front. There is a cut out at the back but for...

Think this is my best bet but have had to put this on hold because none of the diy sheds sell the dual cooker connection units that I need to sort this out and everything else is closed today.

Socket on the left was for single oven from kitchen ring but box on the right is a radial fed in 6mm on a 32a breaker. Total draw from the oven and hob is 11000w max which is within tolerance for the circuit.