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Just to throw one more board into the mix I would stick or dab (depending on how uneven the walls are) wedi board with rapid set flexi and then when its set screw it back to the wall using their washers. Jason

Wither brown also do this type of moulding, have a look at teh last few pages http://www.wintherbrowne.co.uk/uploads/pdfs/distinctive-brochure.pdf Also worth trying your local fiberous plaster (cornice) suppliers as they are likely to have moulds to cast some from. Jason

For the cutters I use the most I use replaceable tip cutters as these work out cheaper than brazed TCT cutters and you are very limited in choice for solid carbide. Interestingly I find solid carbide more fragile that tipped or replaceable. What are you cutting? if its veneered stuff then...

As said a bandsaw would be the easiest but you could rough cut and then finish with a router and template, just clean up teh router bit afterwards to save it rusting. This is 3" Ash being routed in two passes with a multitrim bit from Wealden J

Blimpy, these couple of pics should give you an idea of how I do it, the ends of the rails are also groved and then small bits of the panel material used as loose tongues. (still glued in) J

Singles http://www.screwfix.com/cats/A337786/Drill-Bits/HSS-Drill-Bits/Titanium-Coated-HSS Sets, though it looks like they may well now be cheaper erbauer brand, I use the ones with the black hex like the singles...

I find the hex shank ones screwfix sell quite good, never had any problems with them. Toolstation sel teh silverline ones which are pants, the bit just comes unstuck from the hex after a couple of holes. I've also got some Bosch lip & spur ones where the hex and drill are all machined from...

Should have said you wanted white, here you go http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SCREW-COVER-CAPS-SELF-ADHESIVE-white-/170377147768

These are what you want http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/self-adhesive-cover-caps-6170.html Jason

You also need to buy the wider blade guard and I'm 99% sure a different flange which is thinner and allows the full stack to be loaded. Jason

DIY sheds are just likely to have PVA not the alphatic, what are you wanting to use the titebond for? As their hide glue has different properties to their yellow glue. Jason

Axminster have a large "Shed" in Sittingbourne if thats near you, full range of titebond. I doubt you will find TB1 or 2 in a DIY shed let alone their hide glue. http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-tool-centre-stores-artlshops/ Titebond is the only liquid hide glue I can think of...

If you took the time to look at the link I posted you will see it takes you to a retailer of gransfors and several other makes of axe. J

Its probably the depth of the joint or even the width (you don't say what gap). Large format tiles tend to be 8-10mm thick and the premixed can't cope with that, it may be OK on 150x150 thin tiles eg about 4mm but after that it will shrink. Jason

Tricky I think you will find it was Tallow not Lard that was used as a cutting fluid. Bacon fat is better suited to metal spinning One other thing that will help start teh thread is to file a chamfer onto the end of whatever you are threading as this helps the die to start cutting. Also...

Not as easy to get a good edge finish on the ply even with Finish Birch, Not as easy to get a good face finish, More likely to warp if its not already warped when you get it. Jason

Just don't leave it too long between coating one side then the other, ideally spray the door vertically so you can hit both side in one go. Spraying always adds more water as you use it to thin teh paint. Try using MR MDF its so much better to work and won't suck the water in like cheap...

Glue the panels in. With manmade boards you do not have the same expansion issues that you get across the width of natural timber. You don't have to spread the glue that well for teh panel, I just run a bead from the bottle along each edge of the groove, for the style/rail joints I will spread...

There are usually a couple of catches on the underside of the draw runners, push these in as you pull the draw out, lifting it at the same time and the draw will come out. Jason

I've used the Impey Aquadec tray which is easy to fit particularly as you are adding the timber floor from scratch, its thickness suits 22mm flooring ply perfectly. I use the RIW Tilesafe membrain on the floor and the first 1m up the walls, depending on teh job I either use Wedi board or...